How to Photograph the Milky Way

How to Photograph the Milky Way

Wide field landscape astrophotography is an impressive form of photography, and it’s accessible to nearly everyone.

Astrophotography in its simplest form is increasing in accessibility, especially with today’s affordable, large sensor, high signal-to-noise ratio digital cameras. In my opinion, there are few photographs that have as much existential impact as a nighttime landscape against the Milky Way. Here, I will show you how to make an amazing photo of the Milky Way Galaxy with a minimum of effort and a minimum of equipment.


There are a few things that you will need. Here is a concise checklist of some of the most helpful things. Also check out my article on putting together your Beginner Astrophotography Kit.

  • Digital Camera with Manual Controls
  • Fast Lens (f/2.8 or lower, optional)
  • Tripod
  • Flashlight or Headlamp
  • Intervalometer Remote Timer (Optional)
  • Smartphone Star Map App (Optional)
  • Dark Location at a Dark Time of Night

Digital Camera with Manual Controls

It is a common misconception that you need an expensive camera and lens combination to make a great Milky Way photograph. Pretty much any Digital SLR (DSLR) or camera with a Micro 4/3 sensor or larger is more than capable of photographing the Milky Way, especially when paired with the right lens.

Sony a7S Review

You don’t need an expensive full frame camera like this Sony a7S to photograph the Milky Way. It helps, but it’s not necessary.

In fact, I’ve spent a lot of time testing the capability of certain point and shoot cameras and even certain smartphones that can photograph the Milky Way. One of my favorite backup cameras is actually the Sony RX100III, a relatively small, but high performance, point-and-shoot camera.


The tiny Sony RX100 series of cameras is actually pretty good at photographing the Milky Way

DSLRs and mirrorless cameras are generally the most common high performance cameras available and they offer an excellent price-to-performance ratio. If you’re interested, I personally use or recommend the following modern camera systems, but there are a plethora of other models that will work great. Here are a few of my favorite cameras:

…almost any budget friendly digital SLR is capable of photographing the Milky Way…

All told, don’t get too hung up on what camera to use. The above ones are some of my favorite but almost any budget friendly digital SLR is capable of shooting the Milky Way and it’s likely that the camera that you already own is worthy of trying.

Fast Lens (Optional)

Let me start by saying that the kit (likely an 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 or similar) lens that came with your camera is a fine lens to start with. If you’re just getting into trying to shot the Milky Way, stick with what you’ve got. The image below was made with the regular Canon T2i (a much older model) and the Canon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6. I set it to 18mm and f/3.5, shot a 30 second exposure at ISO 6400 and I think the results turned out great for such a cheap lens.

I am often asked the question: “I have such-and-such DSLR with the 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 kit lens. Can I photograph the Milky Way with it?” The answer is absolutely yes!

18mm/3.5 on a Canon EOS T2i. 30s, f/3.5, ISO 6400.

18mm/3.5 on a Canon EOS T2i. 30s, f/3.5, ISO 6400.

Learning to shoot within the limits of equipment you have is always the first suggestion I make to readers. After a few nights of shooting you’ll start to learn the limits and figuring out what direction to go next will be a lot easier when you’re finally ready to upgrade. Once you’re convinced that you want to improve your results with equipment, some of the information below will be helpful:

In an older revision of this article, I talked about the merits of needing and using a “fast wide angle lens” for astrophotography.  But with a bit more experience behind my belt and some more acquired knowledge, I’ve made an amendment to the suggestion and removed the “wide angle” requirement and instead suggest having pretty much any fast lens from 8mm to 50mm, especially an affordable, relatively fast, 35mm to 50mm prime lens with an f/number of f/2 or lower. The advantage of using a longer (less wide) fast lens are two fold: they tend to be cheaper and they can provide extra resolution and light gathering when compared to their wide angle brothers. In order to capture a wider field of view with these longer lenses, it’s possible to stitch together multiple frames for a high resolution panorama with quality levels exceeding those of an expensive medium format camera.  Here’s my original suggestion below:

A “fast” wide angle lens will give you the best results when photographing the Milky Way. The important traits are a low aperture f/number rating and short focal length. The lower the f/number rating, the faster and better the lens will be for really dark shooting conditions. Most digital camera kits come with the ubiquitous 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6. While the minimum f/number of that lens (at 18mm) is f/3.5  is a little bit “slow” for Milky Way photography, you can still squeeze by with a slower kit lens like the common 18-55mm. Keep in mind that you will actually see a tangible difference with a faster lens that has a lower f/number rating.

Milky Way over Mt. Pinos, Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye, Defished

Milky Way over Mt. Pinos, Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye, Defished

For the most significant improvement in the quality of your landscape astrophotography, I recommend a wide angle with a focal length of about 35mm or less on full-frame cameras, 24mm or less on APS-C cameras and 16mm or less on Micro 4/3 cameras. The Milky Way takes up a huge portion of the night sky and so a lens with a wide field of view will make it easier to capture as much of it as possible. The wider field of view will also allow us to use longer shutter times to gather more light without seeing the effects of the earth’s rotation as star trails. The shorter the focal length, the wider field of view of the lens. If you’re interested in the technical reasons for what makes a good lens for astrophotography, check out my guide on how to pick a lens for Milky Way photography. My absolute favorite lenses to use for Milky Way photography are the following:

All of these lenses are relatively affordable and are excellent for nighttime landscape photography. They are available on a wide range of camera mounts including Canon, Nikon, Sony, Olympus, Fuji, and Samsung. You will be hard pressed to find better lenses for night photographs any price. For a more complete list of the best lenses for photographing the Milky Way on your camera system, check out my best lens lists:

Canon 6D

Canon EOS 6D with Rokinon 14mm/2.8 and 24mm/1.4 are my absolute favorite tools for astrophotography.


There’s nothing special to remember for your tripod choice, just make sure it’s stable enough for your camera and is light and compact enough that you’ll actually want to carry it around with you. It’s not very fun lugging around a heavy tripod, even if it could support an aircraft carrier.  I personally use: the Sirui T-025X( Amazon )( B&H ). One recommendation I always make for photographers looking to buy a tripod is to find one with a ballhead. It’s much easier to quickly re-compose a tripod with a ballhead than one with the more video-centric pan-tilt head. A super cheap yet high quality option for a tripod that I tend to suggest is the ultra cheap Dolica Aluminum or Dolica Carbon Fiber Tripods (Amazon).

Slik Tripod and Ultra Pod II

Make sure that your tripod is stable but light enough to enjoy carrying with you.


Since you’ll be in the dark, a headlamp is pretty much a necessity. I think I once listed this a optional but it really isn’t. You’ll need to see in the dark so definitely make sure you have one. I prefer an LED headlamp with a red “night vision” mode. For a long time I used an older version of the Petzl Tikka XP. It can be switched to night vision mode without needing to cycle through the white lighting modes. This control scheme makes it possible to turn on and off the red mode without blinding yourself with the white mode first. Petzl headlamps are great. I’ve never had one fail on me, the batteries will last for over 7 days straight of continuous output and they do a great job of warning you when the batteries are low with a red blinking indicator. Even when they’re running out of juice, it will keep on lighting for an extended period of time at reduced output so that you aren’t left in the dark.

Petzl Headlamp

Petzl Tikka XP2 Headlamp is my personal choice.

I’ve recently started recommending the newer Tikka R+ headlamp for its USB rechargeable Lithium Battery. It has all the functionality of my older XP headlamp (red night vision mode, variable brightness, waterproof, etc.) but can also be easily recharged via USB so I can keep it juiced up from a variety of power sources like my car, a lithium Battery pack, or even a solar charger.

Intervalometer Remote Timer (Optional)

An intervalometer will allow you to trigger your camera remotely without needing to touch the camera. This is particularly nice to prevent vibration in the camera that can add blurring or streaking in your images. An intervalometer will also allow you to make timelapse sequences and allows you to program exposures longer than 30 seconds when your camera is in Bulb (B) exposure mode. From experience, I particularly recommend the Neewer Intervalometers. They’re less than $20 and have never failed me. Plus, they use AAA batteries just like the my headlamp so I don’t need to carry two different types of batteries. Check if your camera has a built-in interval timer too. Some models like the Nikon D7100 have the functionality built in which makes it great for timelapses. If you’re using a Canon EOS camera, I recommend checking out the Magic Lantern firmware hack. It will enable all kinds of extra functionality like a built-in intervalometer and programmable Bulb timer.

Neewer Intervalometer

I recommend the super cheap Neewer intervalometers.

Keep in mind that there are a lot of cameras that feature built in intervalometers (a list of cameras that d0). My Sony a7S and a7II have a built in timelapse apps that allows me to make timed exposures without the need to buy an accessory. Check your camera’s manual to see if your camera has a built in intervalometer.

Smartphone Star Map App (Optional)

One of the first challenges of photographing the Milky Way is knowing how to find the Milky Way in the night sky. I personally use and recommend Stellarium for Android or Sky Guide for iOS.  Stellarium and Sky Guide show a map of the stars with the plane of the Milky Way in view so you can more easily figure out where to point your camera.


Stellarium Mobile is my favorite star chart app for Android Phones.

There are also a number of free applications like Google Sky Map for Android or Night Sky Lite for iOS that will help you find out where the Milky Way is in the sky at any given time of year. The free apps work great if you’re just starting out. Two other great photo planning applications are PhotoPills for iOS and The Photographer’s Ephemeris for Android and iOS which will allow you to plan for the phase of the moon, moonrise, moonset, sunrise and sunset.


PhotoPills for iOS has one of the most complete Milky Way planners.

The brightest part of the Milky Way is near the constellations Sagittarius and Scorpius but those constellations aren’t completely visible all year or in all parts of the world. To find the plane of the Milky Way at any time of year and in any part of the world, you’ll want to look for which of these constellations will be visible on the night you take photographs:

  • Sagittarius
  • Scorpius
  • The Summer Triangle
  • Cassiopeia
  • Orion
  • Crux

Use the app to familiarize yourself with where those constellations are. That’s where you will be pointing your camera. If you don’t have a smartphone, I recommend checking out the free and open source software Stellarium for Mac, Linux or PC.

Check out a more detailed list of tools and tips for finding the most important constellations in the night sky in my How to Find the Milky Way article.

Dark Location at a Dark Time of Night

Of all the items on the list above, a dark location is probably the hardest thing to find. Two-thirds of the United States population are unable to see the Milky Way Galaxy due to light pollution. Unless you are lucky enough to live in a remote rural location with super dark night skies, you will probably need to make a trek out somewhere relatively remote in order to photograph the Milky Way. This is a great opportunity to explore new places.


Some of the darkest skies I’ve ever photographed were in Eureka Valley, Death Valley National Park, California. Rokinon 24mm f/1.4, Canon EOS 6D

If you live in North America, check out Dark Sky Finder, or the Clear Sky Charts on Both have light pollution maps and Clear Dark Sky has weather and seeing forecasts for locations with the darkest skies. If you live elsewhere in the world, check out Dark Site FinderThe World Atlas of Artificial Night Sky Brightness and the Blue Marble Navigator.

Find Open Public Spaces

I recommend finding publicly accessible lands like national parks and state parks as they’re often located away from cities and usually feature unique and beautiful landscapes. Check to make sure that your park is still open at night (most National Parks are Open 24/7).

Once you pick your location, plan on venturing there some time between the last quarter and first quarter of the moon calendar, ideally during a new moon. This is not a hard rule, but the closer date to the new moon, the more time you will have during the night with dark, moonless skies.

Making the photo

Now that you have all your equipment, are in a beautiful outdoor location with dark skies and have located the Milky Way with your smartphone app, you are ready to make a photograph. There are a number of things that you’ll need to do to make a successful exposure of the Milky Way. Here’s a checklist of what we will cover.

  • Setup your Camera
  • Focusing in the Dark
  • Choosing your Exposure
  • Exposure Adjustment

Setup Your Camera

I am going to suggest some settings that will be a good ballpark start for your exposure. You may not even have to change them for your final exposure but that will depend on things like moonlight, light pollution, your camera, and your lens. We will start here and adjust accordingly. You should be familiar with each of these settings and how to change them. If any of these settings are unfamiliar to you, review your camera’s manual for how to change the setting.

  • Shoot in RAW recording mode
    • RAW image files contain more data than JPEG files and thus allow for greater flexibility in post-processing adjustments.
  • Zoom out to the widest field of view your lens supports (24mm or wider)
    • The wider field of view will reduce streaking of the stars due to Earth’s rotation and will allow us to capture as much of the Milky Way as possible.
  • Manual focus
    • Use manual focus (M or MF) mode on your lens and set it to the infinity mark if possible. We will focus more precisely later. 
  • Manual exposure
    • Set your exposure mode to Manual (M)
  • Enable long exposure noise reduction (optional).
    • This will reduce grain on your photos by taking a second photograph without opening the shutter to record and subtract noise data from your image. Note that this will usually add additional wait time to each exposure before you will be able to use your camera again for the next exposure. If your camera takes particularly low noise images, such as a Canon 6D, you probably don’t need to enable this feature.
  • Enable the histogram in the image review.
    • This will allow us to see a graphic display of our exposure and adjust accordingly.
  • Use automatic white balance.
    • Many things like light pollution or moonlight can change the white balance of the image so just set it to auto. Since we’re shooting in RAW, we can make adjustments to the white balance later. If you’re shooting a timelapse, a custom setting of 3900K or a setting of tungsten can prevent unexpected changes during the timelapse sequence.

Exposure Settings

The exposure settings that I recommend in a dark sky area are dependent on the type of camera and lens that you are using. Use the calculator below to determine the exposure that I recommend you use initially. Once you take your first exposure, you can adjust as necessary based on your exposure histogram.

  • The shutter speed is calculated based on the focal length of your lens and the size of your camera’s sensor. Longer focal lengths and smaller sensors require shorter shutter speeds to prevent star trailing.
  • The f/number should generally be set to the lowest possible number, preferably f/2.8 or lower if your lens supports it. Lenses with f/numbers of f/4.0 or higher are not recommended.
  • The ISO is calculated based on your aperture and shutter speed but it’s a little dependent on the noise performance of your camera. Start with the calculator’s recommendation and adjust accordingly.

For a more complete explanation of how to figure out the exposure for shooting the Milky Way, visit my article on the Milky Way Exposure Calculator for a complete explanation of the calculations that are being used.

Focusing in the Dark

I like focusing before composition because it’s generally easier to focus your camera first, tape your focus ring, and then re-compose later. In general, you will want to make sure your lens is in manual focus mode (M or MF) and is focused at infinity. But rather than just setting the focusing ring to the infinity mark (on some lenses) and forgetting about it, we will want to make more precise focus adjustments to ensure the best possible photo quality. Here are a couple methods that I use to focus in the dark.

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Being able to focus on a distant artificial light (like your friend’s flashlight) is very helpful when it’s dark out.

  • Manual focus with Live View
    • This is by far the most accurate method if your camera supports it. Enable live view on your camera and use the focus checking or the digital zoom function on a bright star to make the star appear like a pinpoint. I recommend centering the star in the frame before focusing on it to have the most even focus field. Note that you may need to change the Live View settings on your camera to “exposure simulation” or “manual,”  in order to be able to see stars on the LCD. If you cannot see stars in the LCD, try focusing on a flashlight at a distance like in the method below.
  • Auto focus or manual focus on a flashlight that is placed far away (greater than 100 feet or so)
    • This can be an easy way to get your camera to focus at close to infinity in the dark but can be difficult if you don’t have a helping hand to hold the flashlight for you. It’s often best to place a flashlight next to an object in your frame that is at a distance of 100 feet or greater, the farther the better but after about 150 feet or so, it makes less and less difference. Plus, walking back and forth 300 feet just to focus your camera can be a drag. As soon as you get focus confirmation on the lit object, switch the lens back to manual focus (MF) mode to lock the focus at infinity, being careful not to twist the focus ring and mess up your focusing work. A flashlight can also be helpful if you wish to instead focus on a foreground object rather than infinity.

Regardless of the method of focus, make a test shot of the stars with the exposure settings above to check your focus. Zoom the LCD all the way into the image review to make sure that the stars look like pinpoints, if they are out of focus circular blobs, re-focus and check again. Always zoom the LCD into the preview review to check the focus, don’t take the initial thumbnail at face value. Once your shots are in focus, a piece of electrical tape or gaffer’s tape between the focus ring and the lens body can help prevent you from bumping the focus.

Understanding the Histogram and Adjusting Exposure

The settings that you calculated above when we setup your camera should be a good start. Once you are satisfied with your focus and your framing, the next thing is optimizing your exposure. This is where we will review the camera’s histogram information (The histogram is usually available by pressing “INFO” or “Display” or Up/Down arrows when reviewing photos. It really depends on your camera so check your instruction manual.)  Typically we will desire a histogram that shows peaks toward the center of the graph from left to right. See below for examples of histograms for various exposures of the Milky Way.

how to read your camera's histogram

Try to push your camera to the limits of its light gathering capability without compromising quality. Check and re-check your image review, zoom in on the LCD to check focus, review the histogram for exposure information and re-compose your frame throughout the night. Once you find an exposure you like, you can usually maintain the same exposure throughout the night.

Post Processing

If your image was exposed correctly, you should need only a little bit of post processing. RAW images are typically pretty flat and require some post processing to make the photograph as high quality as possible. I personally use Adobe Lightroom to process my photographs. They usually require a bit of editing to make them look their best. Check out this before and after to see how much changes can go into a Milky Way edit:




RAW Exposure, Unedited

RAW Exposure, Unedited


Increased Contrast


Click here for the complete Post Processing Article

The thing to keep in mind with post processing is that less is usually more. If you push the exposure of your photograph too much in post processing, you will often increase noise levels and reduce the quality of your photograph. For this reason, make your best effort to properly expose your photographs in the camera. There isn’t one right way to process your photograph but I’ve put together a new video tutorial to walk through the complete post-processing workflow that I use on nearly every single one of my Milky Way photographs. It’s very simple and straight forward and should give you a quick way to process of all your astrophotos.

That’s just about it! Even with a very limited set of tools, it’s possible to create some amazing photographs of our home galaxy. This lesson should have give you the most basic information needed to make some amazing Milky Way photographs. You have the tools, now all you need to do is let your creativity go crazy. 


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220 Responses

  1. Roland Delhomme November 17, 2017 / 6:03 am

    Pentax K-1 and K-3II shooter: built in astro tracking mode as the sensor tracks the stars with help from the built-in GPS. You can grab a f 1.4 lens in an old m42 screwmount and enjoy hyper sharp images for a little more than pizza money if you hit a few websites. The Rokinon shoots quite nicely, but if you find a fisheye Sigma 15mm 2.8 in manual, (got mine for $60) it’s stunningly sharp and yields a very croppable image with incredible detail. For far less than $1000, a photographer can grab a GPS equipped Pentax and with its in-body stabilization start doing astro with astrotracer or use pixel shift resolution to achieve medium format caliber results with in camera processing yielding a single frame; they’re absurdly well built and offer features and image quality that has left our other pro bodies gathering dust. Next up for us is to mount the K-1 on an equatorial mount scope, and use the pixel shift system to nail hyper detail and ultra low chroma noise. Handheld, at 500 to 1000mm shots of the fast moving moon are also a joy.

  2. Harvey July 27, 2017 / 10:12 pm

    I love all of your advice – especially the exposure calculator. But the desert milky way photo looks so much better in the ‘before’ image than in the ‘after’. Maybe you could blend them to make the ‘after’ not look over-processed. The ‘before’ is just so much nicer. The ‘after’ looks super noisy and processed to the extreme. Please accept this as one person’s constructive criticism. I know how much work this is and how easily a critique can be taken to heart or stir negative feelings. That’s not my goal. Honestly, this site is one of the most helpful I’ve found anywhere online. Thanks so much for going out of your way to make this information free to the public!

  3. Ray July 22, 2017 / 8:16 pm

    So quick question. Canon t3i, use long exposure noise reduction or not?

    • Ray July 22, 2017 / 8:18 pm

      Took my first milkyway pictures last night with the kit lens using your info, and they turned out pretty good

  4. Chris Pleasants July 18, 2017 / 6:51 am

    This site is fantastic! I have a quick question. I’ve got a Canon 6D that I’m hoping to take out this weekend and try my hand at some astrophotos of the Milky Way. I’ve got a dark location picked out, a decent camera for the job, however my lens is not optimal. It’s the Canon EF 17-40 f4L USM. I know that f4 is not recommended but it’s my only option for now. So my question is, should I even bother? I’ve got an hour and a half drive to the location I have picked out, but if there’s no hope of getting an even half decent shot, I’m not sure it’s worth the effort. Perhaps for learning purposes if nothing else. Thanks for any reply.

    • Chris Pleasants July 25, 2017 / 6:32 am

      I went out this past weekend and gave it my best. Came out with a couple of decent shots despite the lens. Will definitely be saving up for the Rokinon 14mm to try and get some clearer shots, though. Thanks again for the great site! I’m learning so much!

  5. Peter July 11, 2017 / 1:24 pm

    I’m going on holiday to Ayr’s Rock in Australia and am new to night photography. I have a Canon 1300D with the standard 18-55 & 75-300 lenses. I want to do landscapes and astro work.
    Should I go for the Canon EF-S 10-18mm f2.8 or Canon EF 50mm 1.8 and Canon EF 24mm 4.5 (as the two cost the same as the 10-18)

  6. THUIN JP July 10, 2017 / 10:01 am


  7. Donal March 2, 2017 / 1:05 am

    Thanks for the informative articles Ian. Any thoughts, or more importantly recommendations on vintage manual lenses for astro? I’ve gone full frame and using a typical f4 telezoom and currently without a wide fast lens. My 50mm isn’t wide enough for the occasional attempt I make at astrophotog. I’m thinking this might be a great application for a budget fast vintage manual lens.

  8. Carmel October 8, 2016 / 7:25 am

    Hi, Ian. I’ve been reading and following your website since last year. Always wanted to try to photograph the milkyway but only had a chance to do it last night. I’ve followed the settings from the exposure calculator, but the pictures are too bright. It looked like the picture was taken during the morning. Please tell me what I’m doing wrong. I’m using Fuji XT1 + Rokinon 12mm f/2, ISO 1600 30s. I have used Stellarium to know where the milkyway is.

    • Joshua February 11, 2017 / 4:20 pm

      Hello Carmel!

      There are a couple things that could be effecting your images. I have had a couple situations that sound close to your discription.
      1. Your problem may be light pollution. Even from a suburban sky, my images can come out very bright. To reduce light pollution I recommend buying a light pollution filter or going to a darker site. No matter where you shoot, make sure you edit your images in some RAW editor. From a suburban sky, my images have a fully washed out sky and need to be edited.
      2. It may not be night yet. This may seem silly, but you need a good 1hr and 30m after sunset to really start shooting stars. One night I went out and the sky looked dark, but all of my images looked like they were taken at sunset, with a few stars. Make sure you wait at least a hour and a half(or later depending on how far north you are).
      3. Moonlight. When you shoot the Milky Way, I recommend having a moon free sky. A thin crescent won’t do any harm, but anything after a half moon can be awful.

      I hope this helps! Your setting and equipment seem perfect! Just be patient and you will capture something great!

  9. Jason August 14, 2016 / 7:50 pm

    Hey Ian,

    Great blog… I like your simple videos. I have wanted to get into this for a while and took some shots a few weeks ago before reading your blog. I have about a dozen RAW file photos from a very rural part of the SF Bay Area, where I could see both Mars and Saturn, and faintly the milky way. I shot them on a Canon Rebel TXi with a Canon 14 mm lens at f/2.8 and 1600 ISO for 20 seconds.

    Looking at your histogram explanation, my shots came out very underexposed. But under these settings, it doesn’t seem like there should be an issue. Any advice for my next shoot to get the exposure up?

    – Jason

  10. Ethan Nelson July 14, 2016 / 11:37 am

    Hi, I was definitely planning to get the rokinon 14mm f/2.8 until just recently when I had another professional photographer said that I should get a Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 instead because it has an auto focus and a bit of zoom. Is this a better lens because of these extra options? is it worth the extra $100 for it because I am kind of low on money? What would you buy if you had to choose?

    thanks for your help

    • Phillip Aaron July 29, 2016 / 4:18 pm

      I have the Tokina 16-24 f/2.8 and love this lens. Do you need these extra options? For nightscapes you generally manually focus, so, autofocus is not a big deal, at least for me. Now if you’ll use the lens for more than nightscapes then the autofocus might be nice. 11-16 is not a lot of play, so, do you really need it? I personally like to be able to do as much optical cropping as I can. Zoom helps out with this.

  11. Gary S July 8, 2016 / 7:56 pm

    Ian, Fantastic blog and so much helpful information you’re sharing. I’m really enjoying it. I imagine you must tire of equipment related questions but I hope you’ll indulge another. I’m planning a photo trip to Utah with a long time photog friend and plan to do some night sky shooting. My primary camera on this trip will be a Sony a6000 coupled with a Rokinon 12mm 2.0 I just purchased. With other reasonable e-mount lenses in my kit I’m considering renting a second Sony body to double my productivity on our night shoots. My question is this. Given the choice of renting a second a6000 vs. renting one of the a7 bodies (a7II, a7R, a7RII etc.) which way would you go? And if you don’t mind my asking, why? I understand the a7 cameras have the larger sensor but I’m not sure how much impact that will have with night shooting. Your thoughts are appreciated!

    • Ian Norman July 10, 2016 / 4:16 pm

      So it kind of depends on the lens in addition to the sensor size.

      For example, the Rokinon 12mm/2.0 should perform very similarly to a full-frame camera with the equivalent 18mm/2.8 lens. For the a7 bodies, there’s only one 18mm/2.8 lens available for native FE-Mount: the Batis 18mm f/2.8 which costs upwards of $1500… That makes the a6000+12mm/2 look like a pretty good deal. (ignoring things like AF and build)

      But, there are other cases where Full-frame gives a distinct advantage. Take the 24mm equivalent focal length. On full frame, you can get a 24mm f/1.4 while in order to get the equivalent on the a6000, you’d need a 16mm f/1.0 which doesn’t exist yet. You’re pretty much stuck with the slower 16mm f/2.8 pancake which is closer to a 24mm f/4 equivalent in terms of light gathering.

      Basically, the larger sensor allows the camera to collect more total light for any given exposure and that results in a tangible decrease in apparent noise. It is however, limited to about one stop of light (the difference between f/2.8 and f/4 for example) so it’s possible to still get an APS-C kit that will outperform a full-frame kit in the dark as long as the lens’s f/number is low enough.

      Basically, it’s a little complicated. I have no hesitation shooting with smaller sensor cameras, especially when they are paired with a fast (low f/number) lens. The a6000 + Rokinon 12mm/2 is a perfect example of where the smaller sensor kit seems like a distinct advantage.

      Do you have any full-frame E-mount lenses? If yes, it might be nice to rent a full-frame body to “get the most” out of those lenses. If not, you’ll definitely want to also rent a good full-frame lens. Maybe rent the a7RII with the Rokinon 24mm/1.4 or 14mm/2.8 to get an idea of a kit that should definitely outperform the a6000.

      Otherwise, I would just rent another a6000 or maybe try the a6300. Both excellent cameras.

      Finally, remember that there are lots of techniques that will allow a modest kit to surpass the capability of bigger and better cameras. Things like stacking and panorama stitching can really stretch the upper limit of what any given piece of gear can do.

  12. J July 6, 2016 / 9:57 am

    Does anyone have a link for a intervalometer that works with the aFujifilm X-E1? I can’t find one.

    Thanks and looking forward to response!

    • J July 6, 2016 / 9:58 am

      *Fujifilm X-E1.

  13. Curtis June 28, 2016 / 6:36 am

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    of this blog. It’s simple, yet effective. A lot of times it’s very hard to get that “perfect balance”between usability and visual appearance.
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  14. craig June 26, 2016 / 8:22 pm

    Really great info as I’m just getting started in Milky Way photography. I’ve watched the post processing video and I don’t have Lightroom but I do have current Photoshop. Many of the controls & controls are similar but not quite the same. Is there a video on how to do all of this in Photoshop? Also unfortunately I’m stuck in southern Indiana and while you can see the MW with the naked eye if you’re out in farm country far enough, there’s still alot of light pollution and I’m not able to get a real clear shot. I will practice your post prod techniques and hopefully pull out some decent images.

    • craig June 26, 2016 / 8:24 pm

      Current hear is a Nikon D3300 w/ kit 18-70 f/3.5 and 35mm f/1.8 lenses

  15. Mac June 25, 2016 / 6:12 pm

    Have a question about the Trona meet up.
    We are also bringing our mirror less Olympus 5 mark IIs which have a built in intervolometer.

    Can we use this feature or would external ones work better?

    In liar of this would a remote shutter release work better?

    Thanks for your input. Really looking forward to this. We plan on getting there a day early to explore and practice on Friday night.
    Mac & Diane

    • Ian Norman June 26, 2016 / 8:59 am

      I would just use the built in intervalometer. Similarly, a self-timer delay of 2 seconds also provides the same benefits as a remote release. I look forward to meeting you!

  16. John June 24, 2016 / 5:48 pm

    Really glad to have found this site. I’m taking an off-road motorcycle trip from CO to OR in two weeks, camping along the way and taking my Nikon D610 to try my hand at night photography. Thanks for taking the time to put this site together.


  17. Curtis May 17, 2016 / 11:40 am

    Hey Ian,

    Quick question – i have a 6d and recently purchased the rokinon 24mm 1.4. What do you find the best ISO/F-stop combo?

    The calculator recommends ISO 800 but i’ve found that to not be enough on my 24-70mm/2.8.

    I plan to start at 1.4 and 1600, then 1.4 / 3200, 1.4 / 6400. Then try the same three ISOs at f2.0 and 2.8… all at ~21s of course. What do you find to be the best? Or does that vary on the night’s light conditions? I want to get the best one and then do about 8 or 9 shots of it for stacking. In my mind 2.0/1600 or 3200 will net the best results. Just curious to your thoughts.

    I will be trying this out in yosemite this weekend – yes with a full moon. But also at the bryce astronomy festival at the beg of june, which should be prime. Love all your work, man. Keep it up.

    • Curtis May 17, 2016 / 11:41 am

      Actually i would try f1.8 as well. don’t know why i skipped that…

    • Ian Norman May 18, 2016 / 12:50 am

      Hey Curtis, I personally like f/2 to f/2.8 a lot on that lens. f/2.8 can give even more sharpness versus f/2 or f/1.4, but, of course, at the expense of a little more noise.

    • Curtis May 18, 2016 / 10:46 am

      yea, i figured f2 would be the sweet spot getting a little more sharpness over 1.4, and noise shouldn’t be too much of a issue when stacking.


  18. Adam May 15, 2016 / 9:58 am

    Hi there.

    At the settings your write: “Use auto WB” but than you talk about fixed WB (like 3900K).
    Wouldn’t it be right to hedline it: “Dont use out-WB”?

    • Ian Norman May 16, 2016 / 9:44 am

      Auto white balance is fine for single frames. Custom is nice for timelapse and situations where you need consistency frame to frame.

  19. Ethan Nelson May 13, 2016 / 10:12 pm

    I love your website and I am a beginner photographer with a canon rebel T5 with the kit lens (18-55mm) am trying to do astrophotography with it I saw your picture in this article of the milky way using a kit lens and I was wondering how you did it because I have looked at mutable websites on astrophotography and set my camera just like you and other sources with a high iso and long shutter and low F number and I have tried it many times and yeah I got a lot of stars but I never got that awesome milky way cluster that you got and I was wondering what am I missing I know that I am missing some key component to it but I cannot figure out what it is. I was also wondering if light pollution might be a part of it because I live in a pretty small town and am shooting in a field next to my house but do you need complete total darkness to shoot or is it ok to have some lights around your area? Please tell me what I am doing wrong.

    • Ian Norman May 14, 2016 / 7:32 am

      Do you have a link to one of your photos? maybe I can take a look and figure out what’s going on. The first thing that comes to mind is that you might be looking in the wrong part of the sky and/or at the wrong time of night. Check out my article about how to find the Milky Way

      Let me know if that helps, or if you have an example to show me.

    • Ethan Nelson May 15, 2016 / 9:55 am

      ok thanks for your help I’ll try that

  20. J May 13, 2016 / 6:21 pm

    Hi Ian!
    I was wondering what your thoughts were on the Canon EOS 50D?

  21. Prasad Churi April 10, 2016 / 8:01 am

    Thanks sir using your tips i could shoot a milky way last weekend.

  22. nasser March 4, 2016 / 11:35 pm

    Thank U very much for information!
    How is this lenses for Astrophotography?
    Sigma 24mm F/1.4 DG HSM Art For Canon
    Samyang 24mm f/1.4 ED AS UMC For Canon


    • Ian Norman March 6, 2016 / 3:28 pm

      My personal preference is the Samyang/Rokinon 24mm/1.4 for its relatively low coma/astigmatism. It’s also manual focus only, but cheaper.

  23. Mauricio Abud January 22, 2016 / 1:21 pm

    Hello my friend, is a pleasure to read your post, they are always excellent and a great incentive to encourage us.

    In a month I’m traveling for 2 years and was determined to buy the 16-35 f4 for my D750, but after reading this I still have many doubts, and I had great enthusiasm for taking photos of the Milky Way.I would buy the 16-35 70-200 + one but now maybe it’s convenient to buy the 24-70 2.8 and Rokinon you recommend. Actually I have entered many doubts. There were chosen by about 24-70 16-35 according to the pictures I like to do. You think you will not go very good pictures with f4?

    (sorry for my English)

    Greetings and thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.

  24. Jon November 14, 2015 / 6:20 am

    Hi, if I photographed the Milky Way, but wanted to then expose for the landscape and then combine the images in post, how do you determine what settings to use for the foreground? Thanks!

  25. strongako August 16, 2015 / 7:55 am

    Thanks for the tip. I found it still difficult to picture the milky way even though I use SX160IS with f/3.5(limit), ISO >1600 even at 120 sec. Is this really due to light pollution? I really admire milky way pictures taken in cities or at heavy light pollution areas.

  26. Suzy July 13, 2015 / 5:06 am

    Hey Ian. Fantastic website you have here. You make astrophotography seem so easy that I’m actually going to take the plunge and get a real camera to take the pictures. I’m really keen on a6000 but nx500 & eos 700d seem like good choices as well. They are all about the same price range in my country. Which camera would you recommend?

    • Ian Norman July 13, 2015 / 11:34 am

      My first choice personally would be the a6000 or the NX500 because of their smaller form factor but that’s just my personal preference.

      In terms of low-light performance, they’ll all be very very similar from what I have seen so there’s almost no reason to choose one over the other in terms of performance.

      Other than that, I think it’s just a matter of preference. Do you want a bigger grip and larger camera overall? go for the 700D. If you want the most compact, go for the NX500. Want it to be compact but also have a viewfinder? Then the a6000. They’re all really great cameras in the end and each will perform very well.

  27. Theodoros July 12, 2015 / 8:43 am

    My equipment is Canon 500d, with 18mm-55mm canon Len kit f/3.5. What exposure settings can i use?

    • Ian Norman July 12, 2015 / 10:22 am

      Try 30 seconds, f/3.5 (at 18mm) and ISO 3200. You can also use my calculator. these settings, of course, assume that you are in a dark location with little light pollution.

    • Ian Norman July 12, 2015 / 11:56 am

      Different situations may call for different settings. All told, the difference between ISO 3200 and ISO 6400 is only one stop and usually will not show any tangible differences in the final edited photograph. A lot of photography is variable so you should try starting at my suggestion and then adjust accordingly

  28. Neville July 8, 2015 / 11:44 am

    I’m thinking of buying a Rokinon FE14M-P 14mm F2.8 Ultra Wide Lens with my Pentax K5II to take photos of the Milky Way. What is your opinion of this lens?

    • Ian Norman July 8, 2015 / 4:30 pm

      It is one of my most recommended lenses!

  29. mec June 24, 2015 / 10:30 am

    Hi, Ian! Great article! I’ve been wanting to photograph the milky way for years but being in Singapore makes it hard to find a dark sky. Planning on doing this on my upcoming vacation to Philippines, and seeing and reading your article is just what i need. Hope to be able to accomplish this with my trusty X-T1. Now, if only i can buy a wide lens haha

  30. Dimitris June 24, 2015 / 4:50 am

    U have donw fantastic work.
    Ur video are an inspiration.
    I am an astrophotographer but I am experimenting with with nightscapes and Milky Way photography with a Canon 550D and thinking of getting a Rokinon 24mm f1.4.
    However, I am not sure whether I should go for a Sony a6000 or wait until I get enough money for a Sony a7s.
    I would appreciate ur advice.

  31. Neville June 23, 2015 / 10:01 am

    I am so inspired to take some Milky Way pictures! However, I’m not sure if I have the right gear. I have a Pentax K-5II DSLR and a 18-135mm f/3.5 lens and a 50mm f/1.7 prime lens. Will I have any success with what I have?

    • Ian Norman June 23, 2015 / 1:50 pm

      Yes! Start out with that 18-135 at 18mm, f/3.5 and ISO 3200ish with a 20-25 second exposure and you should be able to make some good results.

  32. sammy June 23, 2015 / 8:15 am

    thank you Ian

    I’m gonna try it tonight with my NEX 6 ( Rokinon 8mm 2.8) ( SEl 20mm 2.8).

    Happy shooting to me.

  33. Brinton Darnell June 12, 2015 / 4:42 pm

    Thank you so much for sharing your work. It has given me much inspiration towards long exposure photography. This website has all the information I was looking for and is the best by far for photography the milky way. Glad I found you and hope to be to capture some amazing pictures. Although very hard to find dark locations in the UK I still look forward to the next new moon every month. As a beginner it is very exiting! Thanks again 🙂

    • Ian Norman June 12, 2015 / 7:36 pm

      I’m very excited to hear that I have helped you find astrophotography!

      Wishing you clear dark skies,


  34. Hayee June 9, 2015 / 5:51 am

    Hi, I am a beginner with Sony a6000, how can I capture the Milky Way with this camera? Thx!

    • Ian Norman June 12, 2015 / 7:37 pm

      Hayee, the A6000 is a perfect camera to start with! Just follow the guide here and you should be set!

  35. David Qiao May 29, 2015 / 10:39 am

    Hi Ian,

    Great article with so much information. BTW, you may check out the app PlanIt! which pretty much has everything you need – locating the milky way, thinking the composition, finding a dark location, calculate the shutter speed.

    Best regards,

    • Ian Norman June 12, 2015 / 7:38 pm

      David, thank! I’ll definitely check out PlanIt!

  36. Jacob May 22, 2015 / 5:50 am

    Hey Ian,

    I’ve been following this thread for almost exactly a year and finally made the jump to get the Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8. It’s an awesome lens and performs much better than my Nikon 12-24mm f/4. I got to take it out last night and used it with my D7100 in conjunction with my iOptron Skytracker and remote. I had pretty good alignment and shot at 3.2 and was pretty happy with the performance, but I noticed some aggressive coma along the outside of the image. In your experience, or anyone else’s, with the 11-16mm, is this normal? I’ve heard of people shooting wide open at 2.8 and never really having much coma. Any feedback would be great.

    By the way, congrats on the Nat Geo piece! Have a good one, bud!


    • Ian Norman May 22, 2015 / 9:27 am

      Aggressive coma? Is it only on one side of the image or evenly distributed? It is possible that you have just missed critical focus too. Some lenses will change coma shape depending on focus and field curvature. Maybe try this: focus with the corner of the image instead of the center and then check the result to see if it differs from just focusing as normal.


    • Jacob May 22, 2015 / 10:15 am

      Thanks bud, I’ll have a go on that tonight and give it a whirl.

      By the way, what’s your opinion on clip on LP filters?

      Thanks again! I’ll let you know how it goes.


    • Ian Norman June 12, 2015 / 7:40 pm

      I personally have never used a light pollution filter but I have seen some excellent results with one from some other photographers.

  37. Prasanth May 6, 2015 / 1:32 pm


    Thanks for this inspiration. I have never wanted to capture images as much as I do after reading this. One question that I have is – how much does the equipment cost ?

    • Ian Norman May 8, 2015 / 1:23 am

      If you want to go real cheap it’s possible on a basic DSLR for less than $200.

  38. Kane April 25, 2015 / 4:17 pm

    I live in southern ca and wondering are going have photo shoots where you get together with other photographers?

    • Ian Norman May 22, 2015 / 9:31 am

      Kane, while based in CA, I travel a lot. Follow me on Instagram or twitter to see where I’ll be next. If I’m in your area let me know.


  39. Ban April 2, 2015 / 10:59 pm

    Great tutorials before go for shooting on Milky Way, Thanks!

    But one question, adjusting the Exposure Value really affect the image when the camera is on Manual (M) mode?

    • Ian Norman May 22, 2015 / 9:32 am

      If your ISO is set to auto, depending on the camera, exposure compensation will cause the ISO to change.

  40. andy March 12, 2015 / 10:13 am

    I have the a7s and the 55mm, but in complete darkness I have trouble with the focus even when I use the MF assist and peaking. How do you focus using the EVF of the a7s? Any help would be great. Thanks! Andy

    • Ian Norman March 12, 2015 / 7:57 pm

      Andy, try enabling Picture Profile 7 to use the S-Log2 gamma curve which should make the feed on the EVF or LCD much brighter. Let me know if that helps!

  41. HB Mertz February 28, 2015 / 12:32 pm

    Thanks for all the helpful tips! Using this tutorial, are you able to get these results on a single picture or does it require compressing multiple image files on top of each other to get that result?

    • Ian Norman March 12, 2015 / 8:00 pm

      A single exposure is usually sufficient with a fast lens (f/2.8 or lower) but stacking multiple exposures can make excellent results with pretty much any equipment.

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  43. Doug Ingram February 13, 2015 / 7:29 pm

    Hi Ian. Thanks for this and your other great resources on YouTube. I’m writing to let you know that the link above to the Uni of Pittsburgh article on the color of the Milky Way isn’t active. The link includes your domain as well as the actual domain of the link. The correct link should be: link (.pptx)
    Also it’s not a PDF, it’s a PowerPoint file.
    Thanks for inspiring me and many others to shoot more, shoot better and show others the beauty that’s there if we’ll all just look up at night.

    • Ian Norman March 12, 2015 / 7:59 pm

      Thanks Doug!

  44. Roger N. Clark January 21, 2015 / 1:03 pm

    Quite impressive. You have a lot of great information. But there are also a couple of misconceptions in your article.

    Correcting light pollution with color balance is the incorrect method. Color balance is a multiplicative process (scaling the red, green and blue channels up or down with a multiplier). Light pollution is added light so it should be subtracted. If you use color balance (multiplier) to correct light pollution, you are multiplying when you should be subtracting, so at one intensity one can make it look good, but at other intensities it will be incorrect and color balance will be off. So to correct light pollution, and remove airglow from deep sky astrophotography, one should subtract. Do this by moving the lower left corner point in the curves tool or the left slider in the levels tool, moving the point to the right (that is a subtraction operation). The problem with sliders is one can easily clip important data. I have a tutorial on how to do this without clipping.

    The use of high ISOs like 3200 to 6400 has a side effect of saturating brighter stars losing star colors. Use of 800 to 1600 works better, then in post processing boost the low end without changing the upper end and you will retain more star color. Note that ISO does not change sensitivity, it is a post sensor gain. Digital cameras have one true sensitivity given by the quantum efficiency of the sensor. So any camera with decent electronics will give higher dynamic range at ISO 1600 than at 3200 or 6400 and higher and collect the same amount of light with the same exposure time and aperture.

    ISO does look like sensitivity, but it is more like digital zoom: yes it looks like zoom but you really didn’t gain anything. Let’s say you are doing 30 second exposures at f/2. As you change ISO above 1600 the data numbers get brighter, the camera LCD gets brighter, but you don’t actually record any fainter stars or nebulae. Use of lower ISOs than about 1600 on many camera does not amplify the weak signals enough to get them above downstream electronics noise (Nikons and Sony are exceptions–ISO 800 works well too). If you image at ISO 1600 and 6400, then boost the ISO 1600 image two stops in the raw converter, it will look almost identical to the 6400 ISO image in terms of noise and saturated stars. So all you gain is more saturated stars without any more fainter stars. It is a very simple operational setting in the field to significantly improve ones night images. On the link above, see the first article in the series for more info on this. It shows a plot of dynamic range as a function of ISO. All cameras behave similarly (Nikons and Sony’s keep improving toward lower ISOs unlike Canon’s which flatten out at ISOs below about ISO 1600). Hope this helps.


    • Ian Norman January 23, 2015 / 3:00 pm

      Hey Roger,

      Thanks for your feedback. I’ve been meaning to make a revised version of this article to include some of these and other corrections and improvements. I enjoyed your tutorial on correcting light pollution. Be assured that I’ll be updating this and other content on my site to better reflect what’s going on with ISO. I have learned a lot in the last few months about this, especially in regards to the differences in performance between the Sony and Canon sensors, all very interesting topics.

  45. Kyle January 13, 2015 / 4:21 pm

    Hi Ian, awesome website, even better pics and information to rival that! I recently purchased a Sony a6000 and I’m interested in getting into landscape and night sky (milky way/astrophotography), all while starting from scratch and teaching myself how to use this camera. I used to be a forensic crime scene photographer and used a Canon EOS, so its been a different experience shooting evolving, natural beauty rather than the stationary and morbid. I’m curious if you have ever or can put together a list of items best for the a6000, and some images that you’ve captured with it, to give us mirror less users more hope ? I plan on doing my ordering through your amazon links to help you out.

    • Nathan January 20, 2015 / 10:27 am

      a6000 user here, and a beginner at night sky photogprahy as well. I just purchased the Rokinon 12mm f2.0 from Amazon; from all the reviews it seems as if its the ideal lens for the a6000 in this application.

    • Ian Norman February 5, 2015 / 4:21 pm

      Hey Kyle, thanks for the comments! I have an a6000 as well and the first two things I would recommend most for astrophotography are the Rokinon 12mm/2 Manual Focus Lens and a decent tripod. It’s a brilliantly good camera for the money and it paired with that Rokinon 12mm is a great combination for shooting the night sky.

  46. Jonny December 23, 2014 / 1:57 pm

    does the Rokinon FE14M-E 14mm F2.8 Ultra Wide Lens Fit on the Sony A7 FE mount?

  47. Helge Nordal December 19, 2014 / 11:42 am

    Hello Ian,
    First of all, its a great website you’ve got here. I am impressed by what you can get out of your shots.
    I follow your page regularly and I have got myself an Canon EOS 6D + one Bower 24mm 1.4.
    I live outside Bergen where I know you’ve been 🙂
    I have a suspicion that the Milky way is somewhat more diffuse her in Bergen?
    Can I ask you whether it is possible to stack the shots to get better images?

    Best regards
    Helge Nordal

  48. Josh T November 24, 2014 / 10:04 pm

    Hi Ian-

    I’ve been photographing the night sky for a long time and I am 14 years old. I too use a Canon 6D and the Rokinon 24mm f/1.4 lens. They’re a perfect pair. I would just like a lens that is around the range of 12mm or something around that, and I am definitely getting another Rokinon. The beautiful image on the top with the Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye, what were your settings for that? I would probably like to get that if it would work out well, as I would like to have a wider-angle lens than the 24mm I have now. Thanks, and great article.

    • Ian Norman November 25, 2014 / 12:12 am

      Hey Josh, My setting were likely 30 seconds, f/2.8 and ISO 6400 with a Fujifilm X-T1. Note that that lens is a mirrorless mount lens. The comparable lens for the 6D would be the new Rokinon 12mm f/2.8 Fisheye that’s not yet released.

  49. Hamza November 23, 2014 / 8:06 pm

    Thank you INORMAN for this helpful guide

    I have canon 70D, along with samyang 8mm 3.5 fish-eye & canon 18-20mm
    I tried to get good photos with both photos but they were very bad and i even can not see the milky way
    just the dots of the stars, i did not use high ISO because of the exposure time that 70D can go to.
    is it the city pollution light?????

    • Ian Norman November 23, 2014 / 8:54 pm

      Use a high ISO. Use a long exposure, make sure you’re shooting at the lowest f/number and check Stellarium to make sure you’re pointing your camera in the right direction.

    • Hamza November 24, 2014 / 12:04 am

      thanks I will try it tomorrow 🙂
      Correction : canon 18-200mm

    • Ian Norman November 24, 2014 / 1:24 am

      I figured. 🙂

  50. vibranze November 23, 2014 / 6:17 pm

    Hi Ian, you mentioned that lens with f4 and above is not recommended, so if I have an option to choose between 12mm f2.8 and 10-24mm f4 lens, based on your recommendation, I should choose 12mm f2.8, right?

    I’m using Fuji system by the way, and the lenses I have is Zeiss Touit 12mm f2.8 and Fuji XF 10-24mm f4.

    I didn’t see you mention Zeiss Touit 12mm in your article – so I just want to ask if this is a good lens for astrophotography?

    Many thanks.

    • Ian Norman November 23, 2014 / 7:31 pm

      I don’t usually mention the Zeiss Touit f/2.8 because I did not have a great time using it compared to the cheaper manual focus Rokinon 12mm f/2.0. The Zeiss focusing mechanism shifts focus when switching from playback mode to shooting mode so it’s hard to take a test shot to check focus because the lens does not keep your original focus point.

  51. Charlie Dickerson November 19, 2014 / 4:33 pm

    Hey Ian. I have asked your opinion on what gear to get before and it was probably the best purchase I’ve made (Rokinon 16mm f/2). I now am looking to get a mirrorless camera. If I wasn’t 13 and on a budget I’d probably go straight to the a7s, but I am thirteen and on a budget. So….. I’ve been looking at the Sony NEX-6 or the a6000, the EOS M, and the fujifilm xe1. What is your opinion, and do you have any other suggestions?
    Thanks so much

    • Ian Norman November 20, 2014 / 1:30 am

      Of all those mirrorless cameras, the a6000 is top of the list. I have one and it’s awesome. the NEX-6, EOS-M and XE-1 are all capable but the a6000 is in a league of its own. For the price, the a6000 is very very hard to beat.

  52. Christian October 30, 2014 / 8:30 am

    Ian – Thank you for putting together some great information. As someone who is just starting off with astrophotgraphy (or photography in general), your site is a goldmine of information. Based on your recommendation via this article, I went ahead and purchased the Rokinan 14mm f/2.8 to go with my Canon T3i. Residing on Long Island, NY, with all the light pollution here there isn’t much of viewing of the Milky Way galaxy. Regardless, I decided to try the settings recommended by this page, via the calculator, for just a regular clear sky night shoot (Shutter speed 24, f/2.8, iso 6400). Although the picture shows many stars visible beyond the naked eye, the picture came out very bright or very light brownish or I guess over exposed. Is this what I am shooting for so I can then adjust via a photoshop type program, or was my iso simply too high? I should also note that I took a few pictures with iso 400 and automatic iso. The results were far less visible stars but with a picture that was more normal. Your advice to this newbie would be greatly appreciated.



    • Ian Norman October 31, 2014 / 3:44 am

      If you are in a light polluted area, you exposures will always look brighter with my recommended settings. If they aren’t completely blown out to white then it’s usually possible to pull the brightness back down in post processing.

  53. just a random stargazer October 30, 2014 / 6:41 am

    Hi there, nice guide and nice shoots :).. Been trying milkyway photography myself couple of nights now and I lost hope 😀 Got Canon 550d and a kit lens (18-55). I set it at 15s 18mm 3,5F iso3200 (thats probably max, havent tried 6400 yet). But i do not get any nice results.. I know that the kit lens is pretty bad dfor astrophotography, but still starting to doubt about the capability of 550d.. Here are some results

    ^ hell how much editing i went through to get this image, noise reductio/smart sharpening/unsharp mask/ niks software noise reduction.. color editing etc.. And the result is still nothing interesting.. Not enough colors and details in the center of MW
    Another one

    ^ some light polution.. this one is at iso1600 less editing.

    So after my expirience I came with two questions for you
    1. Canon 550d what should I expect from this camera?
    2. Iam about to buy samyang (bower/rokinin) 16mm 2F lens, well because iam taking alot of landscape shots and this lens has filter thread (14mm 2.8F doesnt :/ ) + its really fast, so i think i will kill two birds with one stone, not to mension that it can be used for macro (sort of..) o even as a good walk around lens (wide/fast). So it sounds like a very good lens almoust for everything.. What shoudl I expect from it at night? How much better the milky way will look compared with kit lens? Is it going to be notable better on 550d compared to kit lens?

    p.s. and one more, about the colors, I belive that high iso kills colors, thats why my shots look so bad.. or is there any other reason? In photoshop I cant seem to get enough colors from raw files, usually these is orange/yeallow near the horizon (city lights probably..) and they are very noisy and has a lot of bad looking artefacts.. Is it due to the high iso performance? or just not enough light gathering capability at f3.5? And will it be much better with 16mm 2f?

  54. Max October 28, 2014 / 7:46 pm


    I have a 6 x 50mm Night vision monocular and would like to know if I can modify the lense to get a wide angle as the viewing range is frustratingly small…If I were to buy a wide angle lense and attach to the end of the device do you think this would work? It has manual focus adjustment so surely could adjust for that once fitted)???

    Please help anyone! 🙂

    Thank you

    • Ian Norman October 29, 2014 / 4:25 pm

      Max, this sounds like something that’s a bit out of my typical knowledge base. A monocular works a lot different than a camera lens because it’s made to project an image for your eyeball rather than onto a sensor. I’m not too familiar with what options are available to you. You’re essentially looking for a focal reducer if I’m not mistaken but I think the easier solution for you would be to just find a monocular/binocular setup with a lower magnification. Yours is a 6x magnification which is likely the equivalent of something like a 300mm on a camera. Maybe find something like a 4x or even 2x for a wider field of view. It might be possible to find an off the shelf focal reducer made for a telescope but I imagine attachment to a handheld monocular might be problematic. Like I said, I have no experience using such devices so I’m not completely sure of my answer.

  55. Ranjan Mitra October 15, 2014 / 12:07 pm

    Thanks for the this wonderful site. Learnt a lot. Just ordered Samyang 14mm f/2.8 I live in a heavily light polluted area in India. Tried milky way with Canon 600D and Canon 50mm f/1.8 no luck at all. Will the Samyang give better results ?

    • Ian Norman October 16, 2014 / 5:13 pm

      The Samyang should help you frame up a shot much easier. That said, there’s really not much of a substitute for light pollution so do your best to go somewhere dark.

  56. Jayvee October 12, 2014 / 11:14 am

    I have a f 3.5-5.6, 18-55 Canon EF lens and a Canon EOS 1200D with 6400 max ISO
    Is that possible that i can capture milky way?

  57. Joe October 5, 2014 / 10:03 am

    Thanks for the helpful tutorial, I just have one comment. Your images tend to have a blue tint to the sky that is not real. There is no Rayleigh scattering in the dead of night. The warm colors you see in the sky is not all light pollution, much of it is airglow – a natural phenomenon. I think airglow adds to the character of the sky. You’re best off using the temperature of the Milky Way as you started.

    • Ian Norman October 5, 2014 / 10:10 pm

      Thank you Joe. I tend to find that the dominant color in the night sky can change a lot throughout the course of a night. In most of my experience, airglow is typically green in color and sometimes even magenta. I agree that airglow adds a wonderful characteristic to the sky. That said, I also think that there’s nothing wrong with pushing the colors to the photographer’s preference.

  58. Clive September 19, 2014 / 12:31 am

    Hi Ian,

    Thanks for your help and advice, I was lucky enough to get some pretty decent conditions on my holiday (given the warm seaside location) and was pretty happy with my results. I thought you might like to see a few of the results. Too see any further improvements will either mean a better camera or a darker location I think 🙂



    • Robert September 19, 2014 / 4:33 am

      Damn man. Nice results!

  59. Outdoorer September 18, 2014 / 7:17 am

    First of all, great informations Brian! Very
    Someone experience with the zeiss touit 12mm/f2.8 and milky way photos? Want to buy a ultrawide lense for my alpha6000.

    • Ian Norman September 18, 2014 / 11:35 am

      The Zeiss Touit 12mm/2.8 is a good lens for astrophotography but I found the Rokinon/Samyang 12mm/2.0 to be a better lens for astrophotography. It’s sharper and has the faster f/2 aperture.

      It however is not autofocus and the Zeiss is.


  60. Paul August 27, 2014 / 9:27 pm

    I went out and experimented with infrared milky way photography tonight on a converted Olympus EP1. Went pretty decent, but I ran into the issue with the lens fogging/dewing up.. got any advice on how to prevent that?

    • Robert August 28, 2014 / 4:52 am

      Rubber band some hand warmers around your lense.

  61. Kevin Turner August 19, 2014 / 5:34 pm

    This was a very insightful article. I used your recommendations on the Nikon lens list and got myself the Rokinon 16mm F/2.0. This lens is a marvel to behold for low light. I’m able to take beautiful shots on clear nights. Unfortunately for light pollution I can’t get the milky way as pristine as I wanted. But I compensate with some alluring foreground. This adds to the picture creating a balanced look that makes you realize how truly beautiful nature and space are when they coincide with one another.

  62. Rey Lopez August 14, 2014 / 12:24 am

    Thanks Inorman! I’ll be Back for sure, for more Advice! You are Awesome man and keep up the good work!

  63. Rey Lopez August 12, 2014 / 3:34 am

    Inorman thank you so much! I saw A video that you puton youtube about image stacking.. Were those 16 shots of the milky way shot in different exposures then aligned together? And I am just starting Astrophotography, live near Joshua Tree, saw your pictures of the Milky Way, left in AWW! Too Awesome! I have a Canon T4i EOS with the kit lens, used your Exposure Calculator and got
    Shutter speed – 28s
    ISO – 12800
    Is that Ok, won’t it be too grainy? What if I used image stacking like you did would it remove it?
    Sorry if these are dumb obvious questions, I just really need to get a full grasp on this. Really want a good picture.

    • Ian Norman August 12, 2014 / 11:29 pm

      Rey, Thanks! The the video, all of the 16 exposures are same settings. Those exposure settings should work fine with your T4i, yes they will likely be a little bit grainy. Image stacking will definitely help reduce grain if you find your results too noisy. My suggestion is to get out there and make some photos! Experience will help you make the best shots!

  64. Clive Daniels July 27, 2014 / 5:13 am

    Thanks for this useful info!

    I’d like to try for some Milky Way shots and I’ll be using the Rokinon 14mm 2.8 and either my Canon 7D or 5Dmk1.

    Putting field of view aside, which of these bodies will produce the best quality images? Even though it’s a little old now the 5D, being full frame, should have a reasonably low level of noise but is limited to ISO1600 (3200 expanded). The 7D, improved noise levels as newer but APS-C increasing noise again, ISO6400 (12800 expanded).

    And lastly, in the Night Sky 2 app, is there someway to turn on on overlay of the Milky Way or can I only use it to point at one of the central constellations?

    Thanks in advance

    • Ian Norman July 27, 2014 / 1:26 pm


      I would recommend trying both the 5D and 7D but I expect the 5D to produce slightly better results because you should be able to shoot at 30-35 seconds without significant star trailing while the 7D might be limited to about 20-25 seconds. I don’t have first hand astrophotography experience with the 5D classic but my EOS M has the same sensor as the 7D and it seems to perform fine. I’m sure both will work.

      As far as overlaying the Milky Way on Night Sky 2, I’m not sure it can be done, just look for Sagittarius, Scorpius and Cygnus.

      For a better Milky Way app you might want to check out Sky Guide which I didn’t know about before the writing of this article.

  65. Anne Rodkin July 13, 2014 / 12:12 pm

    Ian, this is awesome. Thank you. Was wondering which (if any) of the Neewer Intervalometer Remote Timers might work with the Canon EOS M. I’m really new to this camera, and it’s all really confusing when it comes to what will or won’t work. Thanks, and thanks for such a great article. I’ve been telling everyone about it.

    🙂 Anne

    • Ian Norman July 13, 2014 / 2:02 pm

      The EOS M doesn’t have a remote port for an intervalometer so the only option is to use Magic Lantern.

  66. Joe July 7, 2014 / 11:41 am

    Much thanks for the tips. One minor correction: when using Kelvin for temperature there is no “degrees” Kelvin – just Kelvin. So you should drop the degree symbol. Cheers, Joe

    • Ian Norman July 8, 2014 / 12:57 am

      Doh, I already knew that. Thanks for the correction!

  67. Craig Isakson June 20, 2014 / 8:50 am

    This is great info and allowed me to be successful on my first attempt at capturing the milky way. The calculator was almost right on. Thanks for posting!!

    • Ian Norman July 8, 2014 / 12:57 am

      Awesome! Glad to hear you got some good first results!

  68. Jay June 16, 2014 / 11:18 am

    Hello, great article. I want to explore the options of long exposures and combining that with taking a picture with people in the foreground and be able to expose correctly for everything. My thinking is that I would expose for the ambient to capture the night sky and then perhaps use flash to illuminate the persons in the foreground? Is that along the right lines of thinking?

  69. Martin June 13, 2014 / 11:35 pm

    Hi Norman,
    Im planning to shoot a wedding photography here with a couple and with the milkyway together. May i know how can i get a sharp images for the couple and with the milkyway too with one single shot? What is the setting u can share with this?

    • Martin June 13, 2014 / 11:40 pm

      Im using the samyang 14mm 2.8 lens. Do u think if im using a led light to get a sharp focus on them and then turn off the light using off camera flash for them is it a good ideal? Hope to hear some advise for you asap thank you.

    • Ian Norman June 14, 2014 / 1:32 am


      If you’re using the Samyang 14mm/2.8, the depth of field should be large enough to get both the couple and the Milky Way in sharp focus. I recommend prioritizing focus on the couple for all the shots. Using a flashlight to focus on them will help for sure. I think you’ve got the right ideas. I would recommend practicing before the official shoot and be sure to do your planning so that you know how and where to set up the shot.

  70. Steve June 10, 2014 / 6:23 am

    Hi Ian. I have a Canon lens 18-135mm f3.5-5.6 and a Sigma lens 30mm f1.4 on my Canon 700D. Which lens should be more preferable for shooting the milky way? May I get your advice, please?

    • Ian Norman June 10, 2014 / 10:40 am

      Try both! The 18-135 set to 18mm and f/3.5 should give you favorable results and the 30mm/1.4 should be very good but is a little narrow so you won’t be able to capture as much of the Milky Way. Try both for different results.

  71. David June 3, 2014 / 9:50 am

    Hi Ian, great article here!! My question is, IF money was no object would the Zeiss 21mm f/2.8 really be the best overall quality for Milky Way photography?

    • Ian Norman June 3, 2014 / 3:33 pm


      No, even if money were no object, the Rokinon 24mm f/1.4 will give you better performance than the Zeiss. The extra two stops of light make a huge difference. My most recent workshop participant had a Zeiss 21mm/2.8 and the Rokinon 24mm/1.4 and we came to the same conclusion: the Rokinon delivered better performance.

    • David June 4, 2014 / 7:50 am

      Wow, that is very interesting, Ian. I appreciate your response, and considering your work in this field, I will no doubt take your advise. I may go for the 14mm Rokinon, as I usually prefer a wider field of view.

  72. Jacob May 23, 2014 / 7:51 am

    Great article! I’m up in Minnesota and tonight we have the meteor shower. I’ve tried to get some good shots before with my Nikon 12-24mm f/4G but I always fail with it on my Nikon D7100. Tonight I might try out the 35mm F1.8. Would the 35mm be efficient enough? I’d love to try it out and not have to resort to my 18-200mm lens for once.

    Again, great article!


    • Ian Norman May 23, 2014 / 9:37 am

      Honestly, I would be more inclined to use the 12-24/4 on the D7100 for the meteor shower. It’s got a wider field of view so it will be able to catch more meteors. The 35/1.8 is pretty narrow so it will be difficult to catch many, if any. It’s hard to predict where in the sky the meteors will actually show up so the widest lens that you have will make it much easier to capture any. Cody Limber and Thomas O’Brien wrote some pretty good tutorials for capturing a meteor shower so I recommend checking out what they have to say too.

    • Jacob May 23, 2014 / 10:17 am

      Thanks for the reply :). I was just worried that my wide angle isn’t fast enough is all 🙂

  73. Frank Ficalora May 23, 2014 / 5:07 am

    I have a f 4, 24-105 Canon EF lens and a Canon 5D Mark II with 6400 max ISO
    How can I reduce star trails when shooting the Milky Way?

    • Ian Norman May 23, 2014 / 6:46 am

      With that combination, you’re speed limited by your lens so you’re basically constrained to shooting at ISO 6400 and then pushing the exposure as necessary in post processing. My recommendation if you don’t want to buy any new equipment would be to stack a series of exposures to reduce noise [YouTube]. Start at 24mm with an exposure of about 21 seconds, f/4.0, ISO 6400 and take about 4 to 16 exposures consecutively. Then you can use the method in the YouTube link above to combine the exposure to reduce noise.

  74. Martin Jensen May 17, 2014 / 11:27 am

    Ian, thank you so much for this excellent guide!

    I am going to Hawaii this Juli with my new Canon 6D with a 24-105mm and a 40mm prime lens. We are going to the Mauna Kea Summit and i would love to shoot a star time laps from the mountain (maybe with the observatories in the foreground) My lenses are not any good for star photography so i have booked a rental Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM lens from a shop in Kona. I was not able to find a place where i could rent the Rokinon lens you recommend.

    I used your calculator and got these recommended settings:

    Shutter Speed: 31 seconds
    f/number: f/2.8
    ISO: 6400

    How long time between shots will you recommend for a time lapse? I’m new to star photography and this will be my first attempt to do a time lapse of the stars/milky way. Do you have any tips or tricks for me?

    Martin from Denmark

    • Ian Norman May 19, 2014 / 7:56 am

      Martin, the 16-35mm/2.8 should be a great lens to start with. The recommended settings should give you good results. For timelapses, I would give about 3-5 seconds between photos to let the 6D save the file to the SD card. So this means that if you’re using a 30-31 second exposure, you should use an interval of about 34-36 seconds. Mauna Kea should be an excellent location, I’m hoping to shoot there myself someday. My top tips would be: Check focus twice and understand the benefits of shooting to the right. (Light pollution will be low on Mauna Kea but the benefit of shooting to the right is still there.)

    • Ian Norman May 14, 2014 / 8:45 am

      Send me an email at [email protected] and I can send you a full-resolution image of the photos that you want.



  75. Ian Norman April 30, 2014 / 1:36 pm

    Robert, hand warmers should do the trick.

  76. Robert April 29, 2014 / 7:21 pm

    Think hand warmers and a trusty rubber band will do for dewy conditions here in indiana?

  77. Sach April 24, 2014 / 9:52 pm

    A suggestion: you should make this article into a PDF, will be very helpful for people who want to carry it around to places where there’s no internet.

  78. Sach April 24, 2014 / 9:37 pm

    This was most helpful. Thank you!

    • Ian Norman April 23, 2014 / 2:18 pm

      You can enable and disable the Cardinal Points in Stellarium by pressing “Q”. That will show you which direction are North, East, South, and West.

  79. Khurram Malik April 22, 2014 / 3:13 pm

    I’m beginner i have Canon 70D with canon 50mm 1.4 lens. this is good for Milky Way shoot or not?
    if i can catch milky way with 70d 50mm 1.4 then tell me the setings. Thanks

    • Ian Norman April 23, 2014 / 3:03 am

      The 50mm on your 70D will work, but it has a very narrow field of view. This means that you will be restricted to using relatively short shutter speeds around 7 seconds long. Shutter speeds longer than that will show very obvious signs of star trails. If you are in an area with very little light pollution, try starting with 7 seconds, f/1.4 and ISO 3200 or 6400 to start and adjust accordingly.

  80. Csaba April 22, 2014 / 9:16 am

    Great post, thank you.
    By the way, an Olympus E-PL3 is suitable for basic astrophotography?

    • Ian Norman April 22, 2014 / 1:55 pm

      The E-PL3 should be suitable as a start for sure. I recommend pairing it with a fast, wide angle lens if you can. For micro 4/3 I recommend a 12mm/2.0 if possible. Both Rokinon and Olympus offer versions of this lens. The Oly 17mm/1.8 would also be a good lens to try but its field of view is not as wide as the 12mm. If Olympus ever releases the 7-14mm they announced, that would offer a really nice wide angle view.

  81. Mike April 21, 2014 / 2:14 am

    This is a superb guide and tutorial for someone who’s just started with astrophotography in general. All the articles are extremely useful and informative, for me at least!

    I’ve started to shoot the night sky (without the Milky Way for the time being, to gain some practice first) recently. My set up is Nikon D5200 (APS-C sensor) with Sigma ART 18-35mm F1.8 DC HSM lens, which has a quite impressive score (over 2000!) in the table chart mentioned earlier. Using the calculator with the following recommended settings:

    ISO: 6400
    Focal length: 18mm (widest point)
    f/number: 1.8

    I’ve experimented with the built-in shutter speeds of 10-13-15-20 seconds (can’t choose anything in between due to DSLR’s original settings, but have $25 intervalometer coming soon to achieve sec-by-sec precision), but at the expected 20sec exposure time I get clearly visible star trails in the full picture, it’s less to be seen at 15sec mark, but after a slight zoom in (25% and higher), stars are egg-shaped (full picture again). It’s quite acceptable at 13sec mark in the wide centre, only the 100% zoom reveals the mini trails, especially in the corners. At 10 sec mark I get the best results with perfectly round shaped starts, however the very corners still show mini trails after 100% zoom in (could be cropped any time, not a big deal). The histogram chart looks rather left-to-centre oriented, which isn’t too bad.

    Haven’t “sacrificed” the f/number to 2.0 or above yet, which would very likely deal better with vignetting in the very corners (and thus the mini trails issues) and probably increase the sharpness (with going higher with exposure time apparently, which I don’t want for now to save the battery power), Photoshop CC in combination with certain Topaz plug-ins helps a lot with eliminating noise, adding sharpness and pull the decent colour out. Unfortunately another problem occurred where I couldn’t apply the median feature following the Noise reduction tutorial (great educational stuff as well!), for both Foreground and Sky smart objects. I get a smudgy result of the sky with only a certain line sharpened, it’s pretty much unusable for me. That’s why I do the changes in Camera Raw mode with Topaz (DeNoise and Clarity).

    Keep up the great work, Ian!

    • Ian Norman April 21, 2014 / 4:01 am


      Nice to hear about your findings! I’m glad that the articles here have helped you. I’m really interested in the 18-35mm from Sigma myself, it looks like such a great focal range and fast to boot. I’ve heard of mixed results with the median stacking method if alignment isn’t too good and I’ve thought of making an updated video to show how to make more detailed tweaks to the alignment of the images. Thanks again for sharing your experience!


    • Wajid Rasul July 3, 2014 / 11:20 am

      Dear Mike, Can you tell me the settings you used in Nikon D5200?

  82. Franz Scaramelli April 18, 2014 / 5:06 am

    Excellent article. Thanks so much for the information…..

  83. Ben April 10, 2014 / 10:43 am

    Thanks for the tutorial! You mention that you use magic lantern with your 6D. Do you have any advice on which build to run and if there are any caveats or bugs to be aware of?

    • Ian Norman April 10, 2014 / 2:43 pm

      Ben, thanks for the kind words!

      I use the TragicLantern Builds available here.

      I usually update to the latest build about once a month.
      I’ve had my 6D crash exactly zero times but I use ML only for the intervalometer, AETTR, and bulb timer.
      On my EOS M, I’ve experimented with some of the other features and have experienced a locked up camera once or twice. Just remove the battery in that case.
      My recommendation is to go for it! It has really expanded the 6D’s versatility, especially for astrophotography and timelapse.

  84. Alex April 9, 2014 / 2:04 am

    Great tips. I will visiting my home province in Philippines next week, that will be a perfect place to try photographing the milky way. I have only two choices to either use my Fuji x100 or my Nikkor kit lens. Do you think the X100 with an f2.0 lens is enough? I am aware that I might be having a problem with the not-so-wide lens of the x100, I may not be able to include more foregrounds with that. I will try to post results in my blog too. Thanks

    • Ian Norman April 9, 2014 / 4:54 am

      Alex, the x100 should be just fine. It is a little bit narrow so you will probably be limited to an exposure of about 14 seconds, f/2.0 and ISO 6400. using a 35mm equivalent lens like the x100s’ 23mm/2.0 is usually a good opportunity to stitch multiple images together in a panorama if you don’t think it’s wide enough. I’ll certainly want to see the results!

  85. Mike March 24, 2014 / 1:15 pm

    An excellent guide. Everyone says you must have a fast lens. Am I right in thinking that this is because the assumption is that you need maximum light before getting star trails, i.e. using exposures up to a maximum of about 30 seconds? Am I right in thinking that If you are using a tracker (barn door or motorized) you can use much longer exposures, in which case doesn’t a slower lens become perfectly useable?

    • Ian Norman April 8, 2014 / 9:59 am

      Yes, a barn door tracker or motorized equatorial mount would be helpful in allowing longer exposures. However, one must remember that if they’re tracking the stars, the Earth will appear to move in the frame so it will concurrently blur the foreground of a landscape image. For simplicity, I think a fast lens is better than a barn door tracker.

    • Kourtney January 10, 2017 / 1:27 am

      Jesse….i am … Jesse….i am amazed how well you understand the product launch formula and its challenges for others. Great spirit and narration on your exciting video—i can see some shared DNA from the “video boss” (Jenkins) here–but you have your own great encouraging style. You are definitely the kind of techie anyone should want to deal wih#;t8212&very honest and straight forward. +1Was this answer helpful?

  86. Nicole October 29, 2013 / 3:25 pm

    Aw bummer. I was looking forward to trying this out in a couple days when the clouds move out and the sky clears up. I guess I will have to start putting some money aside for a DSLR. Thank you for your timely response and the coupon code!!

  87. Nicole October 29, 2013 / 2:27 pm

    Thank you so much for this detailed list of instructions. I plan on taking your class on skill Before I do though I was wondering if taking these astrophotos with my canon powershot s100 would work?

    • inorman October 29, 2013 / 2:46 pm

      Nicole, the S100 will probably make it a little bit difficult to make astrophotographs due to its relatively small lens. It’s also ISO limited on its long exposure mode so you will need to install a firmware hack like CHDK (Canon Hack Development Kit) ( in order to enable high ISO, long exposure shooting. I have only seen this done by this guy. which actually seemed to create OK results. If hacking your camera doesn’t sound like your cup of tea, I would recommend saving up for a more capable camera. There are some affordable, new options out there. I recently got a Canon EOS-M on sale for about $350 with a 22mm f/2 lens which has turned out to be great for astrophotography.

      If you do decide to take the class, use the coupon code LOCAL20 for 20% off the class with this link:

  88. Azhar Ali Chaudhary October 1, 2013 / 8:13 pm

    Sir can i use my 16-35 f/2.8LII LENS for milky way galaxy &star trails thanks

  89. erno james September 7, 2013 / 1:23 am

    Very helpful tips. I am heading up to Lake Tahoe this weekend to see what magic I can work with your advice. The app tip and white balance settings are exactly what I was “googling” for. Mucho obliged, Erno

  90. John B September 5, 2013 / 11:09 am

    Can I use a Sigma 50mm f/1.4 lens in a pinch until I can get a 14 or 16mm lens?

    • inorman September 5, 2013 / 12:18 pm

      The Sigma 50mm f/1.4 should work fine for your early shots John. Because of the narrower angle of view, you may need to limit yourself to shorter shutter durations. You will start to see a little bit of star trailing with shutter durations longer than about 8 seconds. If you keep the lens wide open at f/1.4, and use ISO 6400, you should be able to use these shorter shutter durations while still collecting enough light. Finally, you may also need to be more careful with your framing because the angle of view is so narrow; definitely use Stellarium or a night sky smartphone app to familiarize yourself with where you should be pointing your lens. Go out and try it out!

    • John B September 6, 2013 / 5:37 am

      Thank you for your reply. I’ll give it a try and see what the results are. I’ll eventually be purchasing a 14mm f/2.8 Rokinon lens as described in the article above and hopefully get longer exposure times.

  91. Paul T September 1, 2013 / 10:33 am

    Thanks so much for this clean “checklist”. I’ve had several nights in the dark up in Kennedy Meadows in the Southern Sierras, and came home with some nice shots, including some Perseid meteors. Your set up help made it possible!!!

  92. Jenell Larson August 16, 2013 / 3:49 pm

    Thank you for being so generous with all this information.

    • inorman September 5, 2013 / 1:39 pm

      Of course! I want to make sure anyone can learn to make astrophotos!

  93. Darrin August 12, 2013 / 2:59 pm

    Thanks for the info. I was in Yosemite this past weekend. My photos are still sitting on the camera, but I want to make sure I am doing the right things from a processing standpoint. Very helpful.

  94. Brian July 27, 2013 / 8:28 pm

    Great information- Thank you! Can you give any tips in regards to how one goes about shooting the milky way with something in the foreground? (ex. tree, house, etc). I guess two photos need to be taken, one focusing in on the foreground item and the other focused on infinity (or close to it). Is this correct? How does one mesh the two together?


    • inorman September 5, 2013 / 10:19 pm

      Brian, I’m currently working on a post for just that. You can focus pull a shot and blend, but usually it’s easier to pick one or the other. That, or make sure your foreground object is far away enough. With a wide enough lens, your foreground objects don’t need to be too far away to also be at “infinity” focus.

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