The Best Method of Defishing a Fisheye Photo

the best method of defishing a fisheye photo

This article and video tutorial will show you my favorite way to defish a fisheye photo and how to use your fisheye lens as a serious landscape tool.

I recently purchased the new Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye II lens that was just released for mirrorless cameras. I’ve owned the earlier version of this lens and I have used other fisheye lenses in the past but never thought seriously (until now) about the wide distorted photos that they made.

The fisheye lens is typically pigeonholed into a few specialty uses: things like action sports photography (made especially popular by the GoPro), underwater photography, and the occasional distorted portrait. Fisheye lenses often scream “Distortion!” and as a result, the fisheye is considered a specialty lens by most photographers. It is a lens that rarely sees itself mounted to your camera, either staying in your bag or sitting on the shelf and collecting dust. Fisheye lenses are rarely used for landscapes because of their tendency to curve the horizon if not perfectly centered, thus making the distortion the most attention grabbing part of the photograph. As a result, it’s a lot easier to just take silly portraits with one than try to make any “serious” photos.

Fisheye Portrait

The more common use for the fisheye lens: the silly portrait.

I would like to convince you that a fisheye is not just a specialty lens for rare occasions or funky portraits, it’s a serious photographic tool that deserves a place alongside your other, certainly more often used, “more serious” rectilinear camera lenses.

According to Wikipedia, the fisheye lens had its “first practical use was in the 1920s for use in meteorology to study cloud formation giving them the name ‘whole-sky lenses’.” As a result, they’re excellent for photographing the night sky and that’s why they interest us at Lonely Speck. The large field of view that they offer allow us to not only see a huge amount of the night sky but also let us use relatively long exposures, up to 60 seconds without significant star trailing. Now if only that darn horizon wasn’t so curved and fishy.

Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye II, Fujifilm X-T1, Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada

Fishy curved horizons can be a distracting element of an otherwise great photo.

In the example above, I think that the fishiness detracts from the content of the photo. The curved horizon, and the curved roadway are distracting. The easiest way to make a fisheye lens more serious and more appropriate for applications like landscape photography (or landscape astrophotography) is to “defish” the image.

There are many methods to defish a fisheye photograph but some work better than others. I will show you what I regard as the best method of defishing. It’s a technique that I’ve seen used only a handful of times by other photographers but the results can be great. It’s especially suited for landscape photographs that have a curved horizon but it’s applicable to other types of photography too. I will, of course, be using it with landscape astrophotography. For the processing examples, I will be using Adobe Lightroom and Adobe Photoshop.

Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye II, Fujifilm X-T1, Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada

This article will show you how to defish a landscape photo and straighten the horizon without losing too much detail or resolution.

Why Defish?

Firstly, why would you want to spend the extra processing time to defish a fisheye photograph? Isn’t the whole distortion thing the point of a fisheye? Why not just use a super wide angle rectilinear lens?

One answer: field of view.

Field of view comparison of defished 8mm fisheye lens versus 8mm rectilinear lens.

Field of view comparison of defished 8mm fisheye lens versus 8mm rectilinear lens.

An 8mm fisheye lens has a corner-to-corner field of view of 180 degrees on an APS-C sensor. The widest rectilinear (non-fisheye) lens available for an APS-C  sensor is the Sigma 8-16mm f/4.5-5.6 with a field of view of about 121 degrees. Despite being the same focal length, the 8mm fisheye has a field of view that’s about 60 degrees larger than its 8mm rectilinear counterpart. When properly defished with the method that I will show you here, the fisheye lens can retain most of that extremely wide field of view while fixing curved horizon lines for a rectilinear appearance.

Defishing a fisheye photo is also more convenient than panorama stitching. If used in conjunction with a batch script/actions in Photoshop, defishing can be performed on timelapse sequences which allows the creation of super wide timelapse videos, something that I’ll write about more soon.

Traditional Rectilinear Defishing:

The most common (and my least favorite) method of defishing a photograph is to use software to remap the photograph into a rectilinear projection. This is really easy to do in Adobe Photoshop or Adobe Lightroom, provided that you have first downloaded an appropriate lens profile from the Adobe Lens Profile Downloader. Defishing with this method is as easy as selecting the Lens Corrections profile in Lightroom Develop Module. If you’re using Photoshop, you can do the same with the Filter>Lens Corrections function.

Adobe Lightroom has a built-in lens correction tool that can correct fisheye lenses after downloading the appropriate profile from the Adobe Lens Profile Downloader

Adobe Lightroom has a built-in lens corrections tool that can correct fisheye distortion after downloading an appropriate profile from the Adobe Lens Profile Downloader.

In this example below, the image below has been defished to a rectilinear projection. This method results in a rectilinear image but has some huge disadvantages: it appears to stretch the corners of the photo which reduces the resolution. If you look at the corrected photo below, you can see that the stars on the corners of the image are super stretched and blurred looking.

Performing a rectilinear defish also relies on heavy amounts of cropping that decrease the field of view. That 180 degree fisheye image ends up being around a 120-130 degree rectilinear image, not much different from just using a superwide rectilinear lens from the starting gate. These disadvantages are the main reason I avoid using a rectilinear defishing method for my fisheye photos.

Rectilinear defishing works but usually crops a lot of the original image and stretches the corners. Hover for original.

Fisheye-Hemi Defishing

A much better method of defishing is to use Imadio’s Fisheye-Hemi program. It’s available as a plugin for Adobe Photoshop and it’s my favorite one-click tool for defishing. Fisheye-Hemi utilizes a remapping algorithm that only corrects distortion along one axis. As a result, much more of the image is retained and lines running vertically in a landscape image will be corrected to appear straight. The result is a photograph that is much less “fishy” but still has a huge field of view and doesn’t have any of the problems of stretched looking corners.

Corrected with Fisheye-Hemi:

Fisheye-Hemi does a great job a defishing photos when the horizon is in the center of the image. Hover for original. 

However, Fisheye-Hemi’s documented uses are a little bit limited. The problem with Fisheye-Hemi is that it’s normally limited to only correcting vertical lines on a landscape oriented photograph or horizontal lines on a portrait oriented photo.  This makes it fail on photographs like our antenna tower and Milky Way nightscape example.

Using the Fisheye-Hemi filter directly on a landscape photo with a curved horizon won’t be properly defished. In the example below you can see that the antenna tower looks less curved but the horizon is still super curved!

Failed Correction with Fisheye-Hemi:

 The antenna tower now looks straight but the horizon is still curved. Hover for original. 

Fisheye-Hemi only corrects lines that run parallel to the shortest edge of the photograph. This means that by default Fisheye-Hemi won’t be able to correct landscape oriented fisheye photographs with a curved horizon, limiting its standard use to just photos with a centered horizon. Unless we trick it, of course.

Tricking Fisheye-Hemi for Landscapes with a Curved Horizon Line

Fisheye-Hemi decides which axis to correct based on the aspect ratio of the photo. It only ever corrects straight lines along the shortest edge of the photograph. That means that in order to correct a curved horizon line in a landscape oriented photo, like in our example nightscape photograph, we need to trick Fisheye-Hemi into thinking we have a portrait oriented photograph instead. The easiest way to do this is to change the canvas size of our photo, not unlike the “advanced tips” documented on Imadio’s Fish-Eye Hemi site, but in the other direction.

This method is much more effective than a rectilinear defishing method because it retains corner detail and most of the original field of view. For the example below I will be using Adobe Photoshop CS6 and the Fisheye-Hemi plug-in from Imadio’s

1. Open the photo in Photoshop and adjust the canvas size

The first thing we need to do is adjust the canvas size so that the file has a vertical orientation.

In Photoshop choose: Image>Canvas Size…
In the Canvas Size dialogue, choose the Anchor location based on the position of the horizon.
If the horizon is on the bottom third of the photo, pick the bottom anchor, if it’s on the top third of the photo, pick the top anchor, if it’s in the middle third, leave it at the middle anchor.

Defish-4

Now make the height of the photograph larger than the width. I like to use the percent scale and usually make the height 225 percent, leaving the width at 100 percent. Provided your photo has a 3:2 width:height aspect ratio like most digital SLR photos, the bump to 225 percent on the height will flip the canvas aspect ratio to 2:3. You can tweak this number to get different strength of results, just make sure that the height ends up being bigger than the width.

Defish-5

2. Apply Fisheye-Hemi

Now that the canvas has been stretched, Fisheye-Hemi will think that we have a portrait oriented photograph so we can apply the Fisheye-Hemi Filter as usual with Filter>Imadio>Fisheye-Hemi 2

Defish-6

And voila! A straight horizon!

Defish-7

3. Crop, Flatten and Save the Image

All that’s needed is to crop the extra white space out and save.

Defish-8

If the filter didn’t properly straighten the horizon, you can tweak the results by going back to step 1 and adjusting the amount of extra canvas to add by increasing or decreasing the percent size for the new canvas height.

You can also adjust the correction by moving the photo up and down on the canvas. The closer to the middle of the canvas, the weaker the correction. The farther from the middle, the stronger the correction. Play around with different combinations to get different results.

4. Run Fisheye-Hemi Again (Optional)

The cool thing about this method is that after we have cropped the image back to a landscape orientation, we can flatten the image and apply Fisheye-Hemi again in order to correct for any remaining distortion in the vertical lines in the photo (like the radio tower). The result is subtle but it gives a photograph that appears rectilinear while retaining a lot of the original image.

Running Fisheye-Hemi again straightens out the radio tower. Hover to see the change.

If we compare this method to the traditional rectilinear correction methods, we can see that it has a much wider field of view and retains more of the original resolution on the corners of the photo. Hover over the image to see the difference between the corrected and uncorrected photo for each method.

Fisheye-Hemi Trick Method:

Compared to the Fisheye-Hemi trick, the rectilinear correction loses a lot of the corners of the image. Hover for original.

An Alternative to the Fisheye-Hemi Plugin for Landscapes with a Curved Horizon Line

I highly recommend the Fisheye-Hemi plugin for anyone who uses a fisheye lens. It’s the easiest solution available, it works well with actions and scripting (great for timelapse sequences) and I think it’s worth the price for the full version, especially if you’re serious about using your fisheye lens and particularly if you find my “trick” method useful. The trial version of Fisheye-Hemi will let you try out the software but leaves a watermark on your photos until you upgrade to the paid version. Definitely try it before you buy it.

For those of you who wish there was an alternative to Fisheye-Hemi, you can mimic some of the results that I showed you here with some of the standard tools in Photoshop. Here’s how:

1. Open the photo in Photoshop and convert the Background Layer to a New Layer. 

Once your photo is opened in Photoshop, double click the background layer in the layers palette to change it into a new layer. Just click OK when the dialogue pops up. This will unlock the layer and allow us to transform the photo.

defish-alt-1

2. Use the Warp tool to correct the horizon line. 

Next, enable the Warp transformation by selecting Edit>Transform>Warp.

defish-alt-2

Now you can click-hold and drag the bottom corners and edges of the photo until it the horizon looks roughly straight. Try to keep the curve just tangent to the edge of the canvas. See my example below as a rough guide. Hit enter when you’re satisfied to apply the transformation.

Screen Shot 2014-06-16 at 8.19.32 PM

3. Crop, Flatten and Save the image. 

Finally, crop the image with the crop tool.

Screen Shot 2014-06-16 at 8.20.24 PM

This method might take a little bit of tweaking to get the photo to look normal. It’s a bit easier to get an accurately corrected horizon line with my trick Fisheye-Hemi method than with the warp tool but I think that the warp tool is a nice option for people who don’t already have the plugin.

This method can also be used for mimicking more traditional Fisheye-Hemi corrections for straightening vertical lines too. Rather than warping for the horizon, we just do the same for our vertical lines. With a little patience it’s possible to get the results pretty close to Fisheye-Hemi.

defish-alt

Tools

I get a lot of questions as to whether or not someone should consider a fisheye lens as a tool for astrophotography. If you’re willing to go through an extra step in post processing, I think a fisheye lens is an amazing tool for any camera kit. Along the trend of most of my posts on Lonely Speck, I’m always looking for the best price to performance ratio for my gear so tend to really like the manual focus Rokinon line of lenses and their fisheye lenses are very good and they are available in a wide variety of mounts. I opted for the newest iteration of the Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye II for mirrorless cameras.

Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye II

I use the Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye II on my Fujifilm X-T1

Here are some of the most widely available fisheye lenses for interchangeable lens cameras listed in my personal order of preference.

If you’re looking at getting a fisheye lens, consider buying though the links on this article. If you buy through these links, you won’t pay anything extra, but Lonely Speck will receive a small commision to help support the development if the site.

Example Photos

Finally, here are some more example landscapes that were shot with a Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye lens on a Fuji X-E1 or with the new Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye II on a Fuji X-T1 and then corrected with the methods described above. Discovering this method has made me go back and re-discover many of my past fisheye photographs which I otherwise would have forgotten about because I thought they were too fishy.

DSCF0435-Edit-2-1400px

Fujifilm X-E1, Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye – Carrizo Plains National Monument, California

Fujifilm X-E1, Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye - Alabama Hills, California

Fujifilm X-E1, Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye – Alabama Hills, California

 

DSCF3657-Edit-1400px

Fujifilm X-E1, Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye – Trona Pinnacles, California

DSCF9403-Edit-2-1400px

Fujifilm X-E1, Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye – Mt. Pinos, California

Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye II, Fujifilm X-T1 - Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada

Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye II, Fujifilm X-T1 – Valley of Fire State Park, Nevada

Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye II, Fujifilm X-T1 - Arches National Park, Utah

Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye II, Fujifilm X-T1 – Arches National Park, Utah

Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye II, Fujifilm X-T1 - Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah

Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye II, Fujifilm X-T1 – Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah

Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye II, Fujifilm X-T1 - Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah

Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye II, Fujifilm X-T1 – Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah

 

Conclusions

If you’re a wide angle junkie like me or just want to breath new life into your dust collecting fisheye lens, using this method for defishing  can give excellent results. The really great thing about this method is that the resulting image retains most of the resolution of the original photo and won’t have the stretched corners of a rectilinear photo. It keeps the proportions of the image much more natural looking than a typical rectilinear lens but offers an even larger field of view. The result is a photograph that appears rectilinear but has a field of view that’s larger than any available rectilinear lens.

I hope this article may have helped you see fisheye lenses from a new perspective. I was once in the mindset that I would never use my fisheye lens for serious landscape photographs and I was never really fully satisfied with common ways of defishing. I think that employing some unorthodox methods like the ones in this article can create some amazing results that would otherwise be impossible for a single exposure image. As a result, my fisheye lens has transformed into one of my favorite tools for landscape astrophotography.

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Ian Norman

Creator at Lonely Speck
Ian Norman, co-founder and creator of The Photon Collective and Lonely Speck. Ian is a full time traveler, photographer and entrepreneur. In February 2013, he called it quits on his 9-to-5 to pursue a lifestyle of photography. Follow Ian's photography adventures on Instagram.

57 Responses

  1. James August 26, 2016 / 6:00 pm

    Hi Ian,

    I do not know how too get Hemi to plug into PS CC2015.5 on a Mac.

    How do I use the Directory as shown, once the Installer has been unpacked? It went into Aperture Ok but can’t get it into PS! Grrrrr..

  2. Laurie Brett August 24, 2016 / 4:07 pm

    That’s brilliant Ian! I have the same kit as you (XT1 & Samyang 8mm) and I already have the hemi plug in, but never thought to use it that way.
    Many thanks for a great article!

  3. J June 7, 2016 / 1:43 pm

    Hi Ian!

    This article is absolutely amazing! My favorite Milky Way photos are the ones where you can see the whole arch. I was wondering if there were any apps for iOS that allowed you to use the method explained above. I have Lightroom, but from what I see it can’t do the Fisheye Hemi. A app would make my editing process much quicker and easier. Thanks and looking forward to your response!

  4. Keith Nisbet May 21, 2016 / 9:15 am

    Thanks so much for your highly informative and detailed video. Saves much frustration and opens up exciting areas to explore.

  5. Brynjar Berg December 13, 2015 / 9:55 am

    For thos who do not have Photoshop, using windows: FishEye Hemi also works in IrfanView, the freeware/shareware image viewer for Microsoft Windows that can view, edit, and convert images.

  6. Ken September 21, 2015 / 3:40 am

    Nice article. I have independently ended up mostly using the Photoshop Warp Filter after trying some of the other possibilities described by authors on the web, including in particular PtGui and PT Lens. PtGui is a Panorama program which can be used to try various projections on single fisheye images. PtLens is a general lens distortion program which has defishing functionality. I have found both to give useful results, but concluded that the advantage of the warp filter is that it allows me to correct only for fisheye distortions that are visually distracting, thus minimising lost resolution.

  7. Simon Marsh September 12, 2015 / 11:10 pm

    Rob,
    Very interesting video and advice, thanks for taking the time!
    I have just returned from a photography tour of Myanmar and did not have a rectilinear wide angle lens which I was regretting, but now I can convert my landscape and architecture shots and maintain the fov, very happy. Its not perfect but who need perfect, I am much happier with the appearance of the one test shot I have just finished with and very grateful for the insights in to FH and the work-around for the horizontal horizon :)
    Off to buy the full version of Fisheye-Hemi right now!
    Thanks again
    Simon

  8. Lucas September 9, 2015 / 8:37 pm

    Hi Ian,

    Thanks for the contents, pretty good.
    Onde question, I have a sunex fisheye lens, and I get that dark circle around the picture. I am using a Nikon d7100. Any clue? Thanks and keep up with the good jog.
    Take care.

  9. Sean August 10, 2015 / 7:11 pm

    Hello Ian… Great stuff… I have an NX 30 and I’m going to pick up the 10mm fisheye prior to my trip to Ukraine. How are you getting these incredible sky shots with the nebula look? Is it timing and being in the right place? Well Done! Just starting to learn Lightroom but haven’t jumped into PS yet even though it’s part of my CC subscription.

    Thanks,
    Sean

  10. don August 9, 2015 / 2:35 pm

    How do I install the lens profile into LR 5? I try and try and no luck. How about Anglerfish, but it only works with jpegs & tiff?

  11. Oguzhan August 1, 2015 / 4:40 am

    Absolutely gorgeous explanation. I just got myself a Samsung 10mm fisheye for $160 and this article will help me achieve some extreme wide angle shots. Thanks.

  12. Steve July 10, 2015 / 12:34 am

    Fantastic video, and great explanation of how to use the tools to fix the photos!

  13. Rob July 5, 2015 / 5:04 am

    Hey there, great tutorial!

    I own the Samyang (Rokinon) 8mm Fisheye and am wondering if i should get the Samyang 12mm for low-light shots, because sometimes i just dont want that fisheye-effect.
    After reading this tutorial i am quite unsure how a defished photo with the 8mm would perform against one taken with the 12mm.

    Do you have any recommendations about this?

    Greetings,
    Rob

    • Ian Norman July 6, 2015 / 12:02 pm

      Hey Rob, the 12mm/2 is still my favorite lens if you have an APS-C mirrorless camera. A defished photo of the 8mm will be comparable to the 12mm in terms of performance but will still have a significantly larger field of view than the 12mm. (about 170 degrees diagonally on the 8mm versus 100 degrees on the 12mm)

      Hope that helps,

      Ian

  14. wesley chancellor May 21, 2015 / 1:12 pm

    Not sure if you’ll get this but i have been trying to purchase Fisheye Hemi from image trends website but haven’t had luck. It sends you to a unknown server address. Have they gone out of business or something? Haven’t heard from there tech support either. Any suggestions because that software is far superior to anything else i have found on the web.

    thanks :)
    wes.

  15. Joseph Dickerson May 13, 2015 / 12:06 pm

    Hi,
    Enjoyed your Fisheye Hemi tutorial, so much that I bought the Rokinon and Fisheye Hemi, lens works great, Fisheye Hemi…not so much.
    I’ve had all kinds of issue loading it, Mac OS Yosemite, LR 6 and Photoshop CS6, and can’t get their support people to respond.
    Any suggestions, or is their customer support just that poor?
    JD

    • Ian Norman May 14, 2015 / 4:54 pm

      Hmm, that’s too bad, you’re not the first to mention something similar. I think I may need to pull my recommendation based on your experience. What exactly is not working? Maybe I have some input.

  16. carlos April 19, 2015 / 1:25 pm

    I seriously tried funagle-ing the the Hemi plugin every which way i could think of and attempted to follow your tutorial step by step, but no dice. Im left with either a slightly lest distorted picture or an over corrected picture with vertical lines distorting in both directions. Im using the Rokinon 8mm f3.5 with a canon Aps-c camera.

    it realy sucks because i can’t afford to try the other lenses you are suggesting for apsc Dslr’s.

    Is it possible for you to suggest any other lenses for my setup that you can personally confirm will work as accurately as your tutorial does

  17. Chris Wray April 8, 2015 / 7:54 pm

    I’m eager to try your defishing methods on my astro images taken with my Canon 15mm f/2.8 fisheye. While this is a decent lens, I had written it off for astro, due to its modest amount of coma, which became super exaggerated when defished using standard lens correction filters. Thanks for sharing these great techniques and especially your clever hemi workaround!

  18. sept February 10, 2015 / 8:04 am

    hello

    what Fisheye Hemi setting do you use on the new 12mm 2.8 Samyang?

    I tried Fullframe setting but it does not 100% correct the vertical line? (may be 95% ish)

    thank you!

  19. Matthew Saville January 9, 2015 / 3:25 pm

    Just tried Fisheye Hemi on the new Rokinon 12mm. …YOWZA, that’s a sharp, WIDE lens!!! I’m definitely buying one ASAP for astro-landscape and urbex photography.

    =Matt=

    • Ian Norman January 9, 2015 / 3:31 pm

      Awesome! I can’t wait to try out that lens on the a7S.

    • Ian Norman January 9, 2015 / 3:32 pm

      Sebastian, Adaptive Wide angle works well but is a little less than the one click solution that is fisheye-hemi.

  20. Ted Byrne November 12, 2014 / 1:38 am

    Nice write-up and even nicer pics. Thanks for sharing.

    • Ian Norman November 12, 2014 / 2:46 am

      Thanks Ted!

  21. Melissa October 11, 2014 / 11:24 pm

    Hello Ian! First off, thank you for providing this website and sharing your knowledge. I am new to photography, with a passion for astrophotography. I own a Nikon D3300 (APS-C) and recently purchased a Bower 24mm f/1.4 but, I am looking to purchase another lens with a wider FOV. I am trying to decide between the Rokinon/Samyang/Bower 14mm f/2.8 and the fisheye 8mm f/3.5. I fear the 14mm will not provide a very noticeable increase in FOV when compared to the 24mm, which leaves me leaning toward the fisheye. I do also plan to use the lens for daytime landscape photography as well, but most importantly, I want to capture great quality, large FOV Milky Way shots. Should I stick with my Bower 24mm f/1.4 and stitch photos for a larger view, and pick up the fisheye, or… should I go with 14mm f/2.8 and also stitch photos. Which would you recommend specifically for capturing the Milky Way, albeit multiple stitched shots via the 14mm or a single defished shot with the 8mm? Thank you for your time!

  22. Jonas September 15, 2014 / 3:35 am

    Hugin can do cylindrical projection, too, as demonstrated in this video tutorial:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x51lsTAx2oc
    It’s not a one-click solution like Fisheye-Hemi for a Photoshop-based workflow but gives you a lot to play with.

  23. Andrzej Tokarski August 24, 2014 / 12:49 am

    Ooops…
    Unfortunately there is no chance now for Mac version. If I sell many licenses, I’ll buy Mac to make it available 😛

    Andrzej

  24. Andrzej Tokarski August 23, 2014 / 12:19 pm

    Hi,
    I am developing a tool for defishing, maybe you could give it a try?
    http://anglerfish.ajotte.com/
    When cylindrical projection is selected, it gives results similar to HEMI, with horizontal/vertical option.
    I would be grateful for any comments and suggestions :)

    • Ian Norman August 23, 2014 / 6:47 pm

      Andrzej, any chance you will be making it available for Mac OS? I haven’t had a PC for a while but I’m excited to try it.

      Ian

    • Frank May 20, 2015 / 10:24 am

      Hi Andrzej,

      I find your tool very useful and much more flexible than the Hemi Defish software. That said it would be great if you could add a method to straighten horizons following the solution shown above.

      Apart from that it is really a great piece of software!
      Cheers
      Frank

    • Mike Harden August 17, 2015 / 8:15 am

      Hi Andrzej, I have just purchased a copy of your AnglerFish program and I think it is excellent and certainly value for money. I also use FishEye Hemi and a few other programs, but I must admit this is my favourite for speed of use and picture quality. Regards Mike

  25. Keith Hallam July 20, 2014 / 2:13 am

    Thank you for this tutorial. It’s much appreciated

    • Ian Norman July 20, 2014 / 1:59 pm

      Glad to help Keith.

  26. pcguru2000 July 13, 2014 / 7:29 am

    You missed a lens. For aps-c sigma 10mm f2.8. This is also a rectilinear lens and it’s 168 degrees wide.

    • Ian Norman July 13, 2014 / 10:34 am

      It’s already listed along with the other APS-C DSLR lenses.

  27. olahf July 12, 2014 / 3:21 am

    dxo optics pro?

    • Ian Norman July 12, 2014 / 12:33 pm

      DXO Optics Pro can achieve results slightly better than the profiles in photoshop and lightroom but from examples I’ve seen it still tends to crop much more of the original photograph than with the method I describe above. The reason I like to use the method here is because it’s not a true rectilinear correction and it allows us to cater the defishing correction to each individual photograph in a way that retains most of the original image.

  28. Mike Donahue July 8, 2014 / 8:49 am

    Wow, thanks for the great article! I am just starting with night sky photography and have the 8mm Rockinon 3.5 for my Canon 60D. I had previously used the lens correction in LR to basically the disappointing results as you described. I can’t wait to give your other techniques a try!

    • Ian Norman July 8, 2014 / 5:21 pm

      Thank Mike! Definitely give it a try!

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