How to Photograph the Milky Way

How to Photograph the Milky Way

Wide field landscape astrophotography is an impressive form of photography, and it’s accessible to nearly everyone.

Astrophotography in its simplest form is increasing in accessibility, especially with today’s affordable, large sensor, high signal-to-noise ratio digital cameras. In my opinion, there are few photographs that have as much existential impact as a nighttime landscape against the Milky Way. Here, I will show you how to make an amazing photo of the Milky Way Galaxy with a minimum of effort and a minimum of equipment.

Equipment

There are a few things that you will need. Here is a concise checklist of the most helpful things:

  • Digital Camera with Manual Controls
  • Wide Angle Lens
  • Tripod
  • Flashlight or Headlamp
  • Intervalometer Remote Timer (Optional)
  • Smartphone Star Map App (Optional)
  • Dark Location at a Dark Time of Night

Digital Camera with Manual Controls

It is a common misconception that you need an expensive camera and lens combination to make a great Milky Way photograph. Pretty much any Digital SLR (DSLR) or camera with a Micro 4/3 sensor or larger is more than capable of photographing the Milky Way, especially when paired with the right lens. DSLRs are the most common high performance cameras available and they offer an excellent price-to-performance ratio. If you’re interested, I  personally use the following camera systems for the photos on Lonely Speck:

Even the Canon EOS M, which can be found for less than $300, is one of the cameras I use for making the photos you see here.

Fast Wide Angle Lens

A “fast” wide angle lens is the most important piece of equipment that will make your Milky Way photograph the easiest to make. The important traits are a low aperture f/number rating and short focal length. The lower the f/number rating, the faster and better the lens will be for really dark shooting conditions. Most digital camera kits come with the ubiquitous 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6. The minimum f/number of that lens (at 18mm) is f/3.5 which is a little bit “slow” for Milky Way photography. You can squeeze by with a slower kit lens like the common 18-55mm, but keep in mind that you will actually see a tangible difference with a faster lens that has a lower f/number rating.

Milky Way over Mt. Pinos, Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye, Defished

Milky Way over Mt. Pinos, Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye, Defished

I recommend a wide angle with a focal length of about 35mm or less on full-frame cameras, 24mm or less on APS-C cameras and 16mm or less on Micro 4/3 cameras. The Milky Way is pretty huge and so a lens with a wide field of view will make it easier to capture as much of it as possible. The wider field of view will also allow us to use longer shutter times to gather more light. The shorter the focal length, the wider field of view of the lens. If you’re interested in the technical reasons for what makes a good lens for astrophotography, check out my guide on how to pick a lens for Milky Way photography. My absolute favorite lenses to use for Milky Way photography are the following:

All of these lenses are relatively affordable and are excellent for nighttime landscape photography. They are available on a wide range of camera mounts including Canon, Nikon, Sony, Olympus, Fuji, and Samsung. You will be hard pressed to find better lenses for night photographs any price. For a more complete list of the best lenses for photographing the Milky Way on your camera system, check out my best lens lists:

Canon 6D

Canon EOS 6D with Rokinon 14mm/2.8 and 24mm/1.4 are my absolute favorite tools for astrophotography.

Tripod

There’s nothing special to remember for your tripod choice, just make sure it’s stable enough for your camera and is light and compact enough that you’ll actually want to carry it around with you. It’s not very fun lugging around a heavy tripod, even if it could support an aircraft carrier.  I personally use: the Sirui T-025X( Amazon )( B&H ).

Slik Tripod and Ultra Pod II

Make sure that your tripod is stable but light enough to enjoy carrying with you.

Headlamp 

Since you’ll be in the dark, a headlamp is pretty much a necessity. I prefer an LED headlamp with a red “night vision” mode. I personally use an older version of the Petzl Tikka XP. It can be switched to night vision mode without needing to cycle through the white lighting modes. This control scheme makes it possible to turn on and off the red mode without blinding yourself with the white mode first. Petzl headlamps are great. I’ve never had one fail on me, the batteries will last for over 7 days straight of continuous output and they do a great job of warning you when the batteries are low with a red blinking indicator. Even when they’re running out of juice, it will keep on lighting for an extended period of time at reduced output so that you aren’t left in the dark.

Petzl Headlamp

Petzl Tikka XP2 Headlamp is my personal choice.

Intervalometer Remote Timer (Optional)

An intervalometer will allow you to trigger your camera remotely without needing to touch the camera. This is particularly nice to prevent vibration in the camera that can add blurring or streaking in your images. An intervalometer will also allow you to make timelapse sequences and allows you to program exposures longer than 30 seconds when your camera is in Bulb (B) exposure mode. From experience, I particularly recommend the Neewer Intervalometers. They’re less than $20 and have never failed me. Plus, they use AAA batteries just like the my headlamp so I don’t need to carry two different types of batteries. Check if your camera has a built-in interval timer too. Some models like the Nikon D7100 have the functionality built in which makes it great for timelapses. If you’re using a Canon EOS camera, I recommend checking out the Magic Lantern firmware hack. It will enable all kinds of extra functionality like a built-in intervalometer and programmable Bulb timer.

Neewer Intervalometer

I recommend the super cheap Neewer intervalometers.

Smartphone Star Map App (Optional)

I personally use and recommend Stellarium for Android or iOS.  Stellarium shows a map of the stars with the plane of the Milky Way in view so you can more easily figure out where to point your camera. There are also a number of free applications like Google Sky Map for Android or Night Sky Lite for iOS that will help you find out where the Milky Way is in the sky at any given time of year. The free apps work great if you’re just starting out. Two other great photo planning applications are PhotoPills for iOS and The Photographer’s Ephemeris for Android and iOS which will allow you to plan for the phase of the moon, moonrise, moonset, sunrise and sunset.

The brightest part of the Milky Way is near the constellations Sagittarius and Scorpius but those constellations aren’t completely visible all year or in all parts of the world. To find the plane of the Milky Way at any time of year and in any part of the world, you’ll want to look for which of these constellations will be visible on the night you take photographs:

  • Sagittarius
  • Scorpius
  • Scutum
  • Aquila
  • Cygnus
  • Cassiopeia
  • Perseus
  • Auriga
  • Orion
  • Canis Major

Use the app to familiarize yourself with where those constellations are. That’s where you will be pointing your camera. If you don’t have a smartphone, I recommend checking out the free and open source software Stellarium for Mac, Linux or PC.

Dark Location at a Dark Time of Night

Of all the items on the list above, a dark location is probably the hardest thing to find. Two-thirds of the United States population are unable to see the Milky Way Galaxy due to light pollution. Unless you are lucky enough to live in a remote rural location with super dark night skies, you will probably need to make a trek out somewhere relatively remote in order to photograph the Milky Way. This is a great opportunity to explore new places.

Canon-EOS-6D-Review-5

Some of the darkest skies I’ve ever photographed were in Eureka Valley, Death Valley National Park, California. Rokinon 24mm f/1.4, Canon EOS 6D

If you live in North America, check out Dark Sky Finder, or the Clear Sky Charts on cleardarksky.com. Both have light pollution maps and Clear Dark Sky has weather and seeing forecasts for locations with the darkest skies. If you live elsewhere in the world, check out The World Atlas of Artificial Night Sky Brightness and the Blue Marble Navigator. I recommend finding publicly accessible lands like national parks and state parks as they’re often located away from cities and usually feature unique and beautiful landscapes. Once you pick your location, plan on venturing there some time between the last quarter and first quarter of the moon calendar, ideally during a new moon. This is not a hard rule, but the closer date to the new moon, the more time you will have during the night with dark, moonless skies.

Making the photo

Now that you have all your equipment, are in a beautiful outdoor location with dark skies and have located the Milky Way with your smartphone app, you are ready to make a photograph. There are a number of things that you’ll need to do to make a successful exposure of the Milky Way. Here’s a checklist of what we will cover.

  • Setup your Camera
  • Focusing in the Dark
  • Choosing your Exposure
  • Exposure Adjustment

Setup Your Camera

I am going to suggest some settings that will be a good ballpark start for your exposure. You may not even have to change them for your final exposure but that will depend on things like moonlight, light pollution, your camera, and your lens. We will start here and adjust accordingly. You should be familiar with each of these settings and how to change them. If any of these settings are unfamiliar to you, review your camera’s manual for how to change the setting.

  • Shoot in RAW recording mode
    • RAW image files contain more data than JPEG files and thus allow for greater flexibility in post-processing adjustments.
  • Zoom out to the widest field of view your lens supports (24mm or wider)
    • The wider field of view will reduce streaking of the stars due to Earth’s rotation and will allow us to capture as much of the Milky Way as possible.
  • Manual focus
    • Use manual focus (M or MF) mode on your lens and set it to the infinity mark if possible. We will focus more precisely later. 
  • Manual exposure
    • Set your exposure mode to Manual (M)
  • Enable long exposure noise reduction if available.
    • This will reduce grain on your photos by taking a second photograph without opening the shutter to record and subtract noise data from your image. Note that this will usually add additional wait time to each exposure before you will be able to use your camera again for the next exposure. If your camera takes particularly low noise images, such as a Canon 6D, you probably don’t need to enable this feature.
  • Enable the histogram in the image review.
    • This will allow us to see a graphic display of our exposure and adjust accordingly.
  • Use automatic white balance.
    • Many things like light pollution or moonlight can change the white balance of the image so just set it to auto. Since we’re shooting in RAW, we can make adjustments to the white balance later. If you’re shooting a timelapse, a custom setting of 3900K or a setting of tungsten can prevent unexpected changes during the timelapse sequence.

Exposure Settings

The exposure settings that I recommend in a dark sky area are dependent on the type of camera and lens that you are using. Use the calculator below to determine the exposure that I recommend you use initially. Once you take your first exposure, you can adjust as necessary based on your exposure histogram.

  • The shutter speed is calculated based on the focal length of your lens and the size of your camera’s sensor. Longer focal lengths and smaller sensors require shorter shutter speeds to prevent star trailing.
  • The f/number should generally be set to the lowest possible number, preferably f/2.8 or lower if your lens supports it. Lenses with f/numbers of f/4.0 or higher are not recommended.
  • The ISO is calculated based on your aperture and shutter speed but it’s a little dependent on the noise performance of your camera. Start with the calculator’s recommendation and adjust accordingly.

For a more complete explanation of how to figure out the exposure for shooting the Milky Way, visit my article on the Milky Way Exposure Calculator for a complete explanation of the calculations that are being used.

Focusing in the Dark

I like focusing before composition because it’s generally easier to focus your camera first, tape your focus ring, and then re-compose later. In general, you will want to make sure your lens is in manual focus mode (M or MF) and is focused at infinity. But rather than just setting the focusing ring to the infinity mark (on some lenses) and forgetting about it, we will want to make more precise focus adjustments to ensure the best possible photo quality. Here are a couple methods that I use to focus in the dark.

Register at Lonely Speck

Being able to focus on a distant artificial light (like your friend’s flashlight) is very helpful when it’s dark out.

  • Manual focus with Live View
    • This is by far the most accurate method if your camera supports it. Enable live view on your camera and use the focus checking or the digital zoom function on a bright star to make the star appear like a pinpoint. I recommend centering the star in the frame before focusing on it to have the most even focus field. Note that you may need to change the Live View settings on your camera to “exposure simulation” or “manual,”  in order to be able to see stars on the LCD. If you cannot see stars in the LCD, try focusing on a flashlight at a distance like in the method below.
  • Auto focus or manual focus on a flashlight that is placed far away (greater than 100 feet or so)
    • This can be an easy way to get your camera to focus at close to infinity in the dark but can be difficult if you don’t have a helping hand to hold the flashlight for you. It’s often best to place a flashlight next to an object in your frame that is at a distance of 100 feet or greater, the farther the better but after about 150 feet or so, it makes less and less difference. Plus, walking back and forth 300 feet just to focus your camera can be a drag. As soon as you get focus confirmation on the lit object, switch the lens back to manual focus (MF) mode to lock the focus at infinity, being careful not to twist the focus ring and mess up your focusing work. A flashlight can also be helpful if you wish to instead focus on a foreground object rather than infinity.

Regardless of the method of focus, make a test shot of the stars with the exposure settings above to check your focus. Zoom the LCD all the way into the image review to make sure that the stars look like pinpoints, if they are out of focus circular blobs, re-focus and check again. Always zoom the LCD into the preview review to check the focus, don’t take the initial thumbnail at face value. Once your shots are in focus, a piece of electrical tape or gaffer’s tape between the focus ring and the lens body can help prevent you from bumping the focus.

Understanding the Histogram and Adjusting Exposure

The settings that you calculated above when we setup your camera should be a good start. Once you are satisfied with your focus and your framing, the next thing is optimizing your exposure. This is where we will review the camera’s histogram information (The histogram is usually available by pressing “INFO” or “Display” or Up/Down arrows when reviewing photos. It really depends on your camera so check your instruction manual.)  Typically we will desire a histogram that shows peaks toward the center of the graph from left to right. See below for examples of histograms for various exposures of the Milky Way.

how to read your camera's histogram

Try to push your camera to the limits of its light gathering capability without compromising quality. Check and re-check your image review, zoom in on the LCD to check focus, review the histogram for exposure information and re-compose your frame throughout the night. Once you find an exposure you like, you can usually maintain the same exposure throughout the night.

Post Processing

If your image was exposed correctly, you should need only a little bit of post processing. RAW images are typically pretty flat and require some post processing to make the photograph as high quality as possible. I personally use Adobe Lightroom to process my photographs. The RAW editor that came with your camera is probably just fine. The thing to keep in mind here is that less is more. If you push the exposure of your photograph too much in post processing, you will often increase noise levels and reduce the quality of your photograph. For this reason, make your best effort to properly expose your photographs in the camera. There isn’t one right way to  process your photograph and my methods might not be best for your particular shot but in general, I focus on just three things:

  • White Balance
  • Exposure (Brightness)
  • Contrast (Curves)

Let’s take a look at an image as it came, straight from the camera.

RAW Exposure, Unedited

RAW Exposure, Unedited

White Balance Apparently, the color temperature of the Milky Way is about 4840K [pdf]. I find that 4840K is a little too yellow/orange in color, usually because there’s alway some influence from light pollution, no matter where you are in the world. A lot of astrophotographers swear by shooting in tungsten white balance (3200K) which will keep the stars looking blue. That said, I use about 3900K  most of the time for my white balance setting but this may just be a personal preference. I don’t typically pre-set white balance on my camera when taking the shot. 90% of the time, I usually just leave it in auto white balance (AWB) unless I’m shooting a timelapse sequence where I’ll set it to roughly to 3900K.

When shooting in RAW, we can adjust white balance in post processing so the camera settings doesn’t matter that much. Try 3900K and adjust from there. Other factors like the moon and the sun can affect your white balance. Even if both the moon and sun are set below the horizon, they will continue to turn the sky a blue tint even an hour or two after they set, forcing the white balance to a higher temperature Kelvin. Adjust until you have a nice neutral picture:

White Balance 3900K

White Balance 3900K

Exposure (Brightness) Hopefully the exposure will require the least adjustment. (If you made a good exposure in the camera.) Here I will add about +0.5 Exposure Value (EV), which makes the photograph 50% brighter. Try to avoid adjusting more than +/-1.0 EV unless noise levels allow for it. You will discover that adjustments larger than +/-1.0 EV will  increase noise levels too. The amount of post exposure adjustment necessary will depend on your exposure in the camera.

Brightness

Increased Brightness +0.5EV

Contrast (Curves) Contrast is the final essential post processing adjustment to use. I tend to increase contrast as much as possible without blowing out highlight or shadow details. Curves adjustment allows for a more precise contrast adjustment of specific lightness values and is my choice for making detailed adjustments. With curves to can make just the darks darker and just the brights brighter. Lightroom also allows you to adjust only designated portions of an image using the graduated filter or adjustment brush tools.

Contrast

Increased Contrast

That’s just about it! Even with a very limited set of tools, it’s possible to create some amazing photographs of our home galaxy. This lesson should have give you the most basic information needed to make some amazing Milky Way photographs. You have the tools, now all you need to do is let your creativity go crazy. 

Head on over to Astrophotography 101 for lessons on exposure, processing and other astrophotography tips and techniques.
First Time? Check out the How to Photograph the Milky Way lesson.

Help us help you!

Believe it or not, Lonely Speck is a full-time job. It’s been an amazing experience for us to see a community develop around learning astrophotography and we’re so happy to be a small part of it. I have learned that amazing things happen when you ask for help so remember that we are always here for you. If you have any questions about photography or just want to share a story, contact us! If you find the articles here helpful, consider helping us out with a donation.

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The biggest contribution comes from the use of our affiliate links. When you buy through the Amazon or B&H Photo links on Lonely Speck, it costs you nothing extra, but we will receive a small commission (usually 2-4%) to help run the site.

Thanks so much for being a part of our astrophotography adventure.

-Ian

Back to Astrophotography 101

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114 Responses

  1. Helge Nordal December 19, 2014 / 11:42 am

    Hello Ian,
    First of all, its a great website you’ve got here. I am impressed by what you can get out of your shots.
    I follow your page regularly and I have got myself an Canon EOS 6D + one Bower 24mm 1.4.
    I live outside Bergen where I know you’ve been :)
    I have a suspicion that the Milky way is somewhat more diffuse her in Bergen?
    Can I ask you whether it is possible to stack the shots to get better images?

    Best regards
    Helge Nordal

  2. Josh T November 24, 2014 / 10:04 pm

    Hi Ian-

    I’ve been photographing the night sky for a long time and I am 14 years old. I too use a Canon 6D and the Rokinon 24mm f/1.4 lens. They’re a perfect pair. I would just like a lens that is around the range of 12mm or something around that, and I am definitely getting another Rokinon. The beautiful image on the top with the Rokinon 8mm f/2.8 Fisheye, what were your settings for that? I would probably like to get that if it would work out well, as I would like to have a wider-angle lens than the 24mm I have now. Thanks, and great article.

    • Ian Norman November 25, 2014 / 12:12 am

      Hey Josh, My setting were likely 30 seconds, f/2.8 and ISO 6400 with a Fujifilm X-T1. Note that that lens is a mirrorless mount lens. The comparable lens for the 6D would be the new Rokinon 12mm f/2.8 Fisheye that’s not yet released.

  3. Hamza November 23, 2014 / 8:06 pm

    Thank you INORMAN for this helpful guide

    I have canon 70D, along with samyang 8mm 3.5 fish-eye & canon 18-20mm
    I tried to get good photos with both photos but they were very bad and i even can not see the milky way
    just the dots of the stars, i did not use high ISO because of the exposure time that 70D can go to.
    is it the city pollution light?????

    • Ian Norman November 23, 2014 / 8:54 pm

      Use a high ISO. Use a long exposure, make sure you’re shooting at the lowest f/number and check Stellarium to make sure you’re pointing your camera in the right direction.

    • Hamza November 24, 2014 / 12:04 am

      thanks I will try it tomorrow :)
      Correction : canon 18-200mm

    • Ian Norman November 24, 2014 / 1:24 am

      I figured. :-)

  4. vibranze November 23, 2014 / 6:17 pm

    Hi Ian, you mentioned that lens with f4 and above is not recommended, so if I have an option to choose between 12mm f2.8 and 10-24mm f4 lens, based on your recommendation, I should choose 12mm f2.8, right?

    I’m using Fuji system by the way, and the lenses I have is Zeiss Touit 12mm f2.8 and Fuji XF 10-24mm f4.

    I didn’t see you mention Zeiss Touit 12mm in your article – http://www.lonelyspeck.com/best-lenses-for-milky-way-photography-fujifilm/#more-2479 so I just want to ask if this is a good lens for astrophotography?

    Many thanks.

    • Ian Norman November 23, 2014 / 7:31 pm

      I don’t usually mention the Zeiss Touit f/2.8 because I did not have a great time using it compared to the cheaper manual focus Rokinon 12mm f/2.0. The Zeiss focusing mechanism shifts focus when switching from playback mode to shooting mode so it’s hard to take a test shot to check focus because the lens does not keep your original focus point.

  5. Charlie Dickerson November 19, 2014 / 4:33 pm

    Hey Ian. I have asked your opinion on what gear to get before and it was probably the best purchase I’ve made (Rokinon 16mm f/2). I now am looking to get a mirrorless camera. If I wasn’t 13 and on a budget I’d probably go straight to the a7s, but I am thirteen and on a budget. So….. I’ve been looking at the Sony NEX-6 or the a6000, the EOS M, and the fujifilm xe1. What is your opinion, and do you have any other suggestions?
    Thanks so much

    • Ian Norman November 20, 2014 / 1:30 am

      Of all those mirrorless cameras, the a6000 is top of the list. I have one and it’s awesome. the NEX-6, EOS-M and XE-1 are all capable but the a6000 is in a league of its own. For the price, the a6000 is very very hard to beat.

  6. Christian October 30, 2014 / 8:30 am

    Ian – Thank you for putting together some great information. As someone who is just starting off with astrophotgraphy (or photography in general), your site is a goldmine of information. Based on your recommendation via this article, I went ahead and purchased the Rokinan 14mm f/2.8 to go with my Canon T3i. Residing on Long Island, NY, with all the light pollution here there isn’t much of viewing of the Milky Way galaxy. Regardless, I decided to try the settings recommended by this page, via the calculator, for just a regular clear sky night shoot (Shutter speed 24, f/2.8, iso 6400). Although the picture shows many stars visible beyond the naked eye, the picture came out very bright or very light brownish or I guess over exposed. Is this what I am shooting for so I can then adjust via a photoshop type program, or was my iso simply too high? I should also note that I took a few pictures with iso 400 and automatic iso. The results were far less visible stars but with a picture that was more normal. Your advice to this newbie would be greatly appreciated.

    Cheers

    Christian

    • Ian Norman October 31, 2014 / 3:44 am

      If you are in a light polluted area, you exposures will always look brighter with my recommended settings. If they aren’t completely blown out to white then it’s usually possible to pull the brightness back down in post processing.

  7. just a random stargazer October 30, 2014 / 6:41 am

    Hi there, nice guide and nice shoots :).. Been trying milkyway photography myself couple of nights now and I lost hope :D Got Canon 550d and a kit lens (18-55). I set it at 15s 18mm 3,5F iso3200 (thats probably max, havent tried 6400 yet). But i do not get any nice results.. I know that the kit lens is pretty bad dfor astrophotography, but still starting to doubt about the capability of 550d.. Here are some results
    https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/1532070_782281125154179_8350335210509520541_o.jpg
    ^ hell how much editing i went through to get this image, noise reductio/smart sharpening/unsharp mask/ niks software noise reduction.. color editing etc.. And the result is still nothing interesting.. Not enough colors and details in the center of MW
    Another one
    https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t31.0-8/q92/s960x960/10710469_781493391899619_8270084074445042862_o.jpg
    ^ some light polution.. this one is at iso1600 less editing.

    So after my expirience I came with two questions for you
    1. Canon 550d what should I expect from this camera?
    2. Iam about to buy samyang (bower/rokinin) 16mm 2F lens, well because iam taking alot of landscape shots and this lens has filter thread (14mm 2.8F doesnt :/ ) + its really fast, so i think i will kill two birds with one stone, not to mension that it can be used for macro (sort of..) o even as a good walk around lens (wide/fast). So it sounds like a very good lens almoust for everything.. What shoudl I expect from it at night? How much better the milky way will look compared with kit lens? Is it going to be notable better on 550d compared to kit lens?

    p.s. and one more, about the colors, I belive that high iso kills colors, thats why my shots look so bad.. or is there any other reason? In photoshop I cant seem to get enough colors from raw files, usually these is orange/yeallow near the horizon (city lights probably..) and they are very noisy and has a lot of bad looking artefacts.. Is it due to the high iso performance? or just not enough light gathering capability at f3.5? And will it be much better with 16mm 2f?

  8. Max October 28, 2014 / 7:46 pm

    Hi,

    I have a 6 x 50mm Night vision monocular and would like to know if I can modify the lense to get a wide angle as the viewing range is frustratingly small…If I were to buy a wide angle lense and attach to the end of the device do you think this would work? It has manual focus adjustment so surely could adjust for that once fitted)???

    Please help anyone! :)

    Thank you

    • Ian Norman October 29, 2014 / 4:25 pm

      Max, this sounds like something that’s a bit out of my typical knowledge base. A monocular works a lot different than a camera lens because it’s made to project an image for your eyeball rather than onto a sensor. I’m not too familiar with what options are available to you. You’re essentially looking for a focal reducer if I’m not mistaken but I think the easier solution for you would be to just find a monocular/binocular setup with a lower magnification. Yours is a 6x magnification which is likely the equivalent of something like a 300mm on a camera. Maybe find something like a 4x or even 2x for a wider field of view. It might be possible to find an off the shelf focal reducer made for a telescope but I imagine attachment to a handheld monocular might be problematic. Like I said, I have no experience using such devices so I’m not completely sure of my answer.

  9. Ranjan Mitra October 15, 2014 / 12:07 pm

    Ian,
    Thanks for the this wonderful site. Learnt a lot. Just ordered Samyang 14mm f/2.8 I live in a heavily light polluted area in India. Tried milky way with Canon 600D and Canon 50mm f/1.8 no luck at all. Will the Samyang give better results ?

    • Ian Norman October 16, 2014 / 5:13 pm

      The Samyang should help you frame up a shot much easier. That said, there’s really not much of a substitute for light pollution so do your best to go somewhere dark.

  10. Jayvee October 12, 2014 / 11:14 am

    I have a f 3.5-5.6, 18-55 Canon EF lens and a Canon EOS 1200D with 6400 max ISO
    Is that possible that i can capture milky way?

  11. Joe October 5, 2014 / 10:03 am

    Thanks for the helpful tutorial, I just have one comment. Your images tend to have a blue tint to the sky that is not real. There is no Rayleigh scattering in the dead of night. The warm colors you see in the sky is not all light pollution, much of it is airglow – a natural phenomenon. I think airglow adds to the character of the sky. You’re best off using the temperature of the Milky Way as you started.

    • Ian Norman October 5, 2014 / 10:10 pm

      Thank you Joe. I tend to find that the dominant color in the night sky can change a lot throughout the course of a night. In most of my experience, airglow is typically green in color and sometimes even magenta. I agree that airglow adds a wonderful characteristic to the sky. That said, I also think that there’s nothing wrong with pushing the colors to the photographer’s preference.

  12. Clive September 19, 2014 / 12:31 am

    Hi Ian,

    Thanks for your help and advice, I was lucky enough to get some pretty decent conditions on my holiday (given the warm seaside location) and was pretty happy with my results. I thought you might like to see a few of the results. Too see any further improvements will either mean a better camera or a darker location I think :)

    Link

    Thanks
    Clive

    • Robert September 19, 2014 / 4:33 am

      Damn man. Nice results!

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