Canon EOS 6D Review

Canon 6D

Canon 6D with Rokinon 14mm/2.8 and 24mm/1.4, one of my favorite full-frame set ups for astrophotography

My review of the Canon EOS 6D: one of the best full-frame cameras for astrophotography

I’ve had the pleasure of using the Canon EOS 6D for over a year. It’s still Canon’s cheapest full-frame camera in production. I would argue the 6D is one of the best full-frame cameras you can buy for astrophotography. This review will be a quick overview of my thoughts on using the 6D as my primary camera for astrophotography. I’ll start with what I don’t like and then I’ll move on to what I love. At the end of the article you’ll find some of my favorite photos from the 6D from the last year.

This isn’t a comparison post or a pixel peeping post, it’s merely my opinions about the 6D. There are plenty of other articles that compare the 6D to its current generation rivals. (Here and here for example.)

The Quirks

  • No tilt screen. This is honestly the most annoying aspect of this camera. It seems like a trivial point to make since tilt screens are usually associated with cheaper cameras and most professional level cameras aren’t expected to have a tilt screen. But when it comes to astrophotography in particular, the lack of a tilt screen makes composition and focusing much harder when the camera is positioned low to the ground. Since astrophotography usually calls for photos with more than half of the frame featuring the sky, it’s very common to place the camera in a low position so that your foreground subjects are situated against the sky. With the 6D you’ll find yourself on your stomach trying to look at the LCD when it’s this low to the ground. Strangely, the cheaper APS-C offerings by Canon, the EOS 60D and EOS 70D both have tilt screens.
  • The buttons are spongy. For normal operation, this is never a problem. When shooting photos in the dark, it’s impossible to know what you’re pressing. I’ve had this camera for a year and you would think that I’d have gotten used to where all the buttons are placed, but it’s surprisingly easy to accidentally press the “Q” button when you mean to press the “Magnify” button, or press the “Magnify” button when you meant to press the “Q” button. All three of these buttons are placed for easy access to your thumb, but all of them are flush with the body and have no tactile feedback whatsoever.
    Canon EOS 6D Rear Buttons

    In the dark it’s really easy to mispress buttons on the 6D.

  • It doesn’t have a built in intervalometer. This is a complaint I could make about most DSLRs. Why camera manufacturers have not made a software intervalometer a feature on every camera is beyond me. It would require minimal development time and needs no extra hardware. What this means is that the 6D requires either an additional accessory for making time lapse sequences or you must install (through some initially daunting steps) a community developed custom firmware hack called Magic Lantern. I use Magic Lantern on the 6D, and it works, but stability is still not 100%, and it’s usage is not the fastest and is a little daunting for some. Furthermore, it adds a lot of menu complexity and the potential to induce some unusual behavior in your camera that may trip you up unless you realize that you may have forgotten having enabled some strange setting on Magic Lantern. If you want to install Magic Lantern on your 6D, you’ll need to follow the directions posted on the forum thread here. If you’re serious about time lapse creation and you own a Canon DSLR, Magic Lantern is essential. I have no clue why Canon has not caught on and offered all the functionality offered by Magic Lantern out of the box.
Magic Lantern Canon EOS 6D

The Magic Lantern firmware hack adds a much missed software intervalometer and other advanced functions to the Canon EOS 6D.

  • Enabling the GPS drains the battery fast. I love the idea of geo-tagging my photos, but if you leave the GPS enabled your battery life will suffer. I’m not keen on reducing my battery life significantly so I try to leave it disabled until I need it. Since it’s one extra thing to enable before shooting, I often forget about it and don’t bother, making it an awesome feature that you’re not likely to use.
  • The Wi-Fi remote control is slow and clunky. It works most of the time, but its operation is not fast enough to be truly practical as a professional tool. The image often lags far behind and the connection will often drop at ranges as short as 20 feet. Furthermore, there’s no way to override the mode dial selection via the remote software, meaning that if you decide to switch from aperture priority to manual exposure mode, you’ll need to go back and handle the camera. Also, given the slow performance of the Wi-Fi remote function, your cell phone or tablet isn’t as practical a replacement for a tilt screen as you may think it could be.

The Goods

  • It’s the lightest full-frame DSLR. The only thing lighter in full frame is the Sony A7 and A7R, but they’re mirrorless and are super new to the market, so they have a much reduced selection of full-frame lenses. (Although Rokinon just made the awesome 14mm/2.8 and 24mm/1.4 available for the Sony A mount.) When compared to the Canon EOS 5D Mark III, the 6D feels featherlight.
  • The build quality is tank-like. It’s been said that one of the benefits of the 5D Mark III over the 6D is better build quality, but I’m not seeing it. In over a year of truly hard use, my 6D looks nearly new. It has no finish loss anywhere, the screen is scratch free and there are no dings anywhere. Sure, it has more plastic in its construction than the 5D Mark III, but it’s super tough anyway.
  • Excellent low-light, high ISO performance. This is what astrophotographers want to know. The Canon EOS 6D makes the cleanest looking high ISO astrophotos that I’ve ever seen from a full-frame DSLR.  They retain a tremendous amount of detail, even when pushed several stops in post processing. I have no hesitation using the camera up to ISO 12800 in any conditions. This means that the camera can make successful exposures of the Milky Way with lenses as slow as f/4.0 (although I would recommend a fast lens with an f/number of f/2.8 or lower). This trait alone makes it one of the best cameras that you can buy. I’m not a pixel peeper, but the image quality from the 6D is nothing short of amazing. It’s a leap beyond my old Canon 5D Mark II and just pulls ahead of most other full-frame DSLRs in the high ISO department.
Canon 6D ISO 12800 Astrophoto

Alabama Hills, California. Even at ISO 12800, files from the Canon 6D are super clean. Canon EOS 6D, Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 @ f/2.8, 30 seconds, ISO 12800. Straight from the camera.

  • Quiet shutter mode is nice and soft sounding. I didn’t get the Canon 6D for how quiet it would be but it’s something that I’ve come to love about the camera. When silent mode is enabled, it’s significantly quieter than any other DLSR I’ve used but still has a pleasant level of audible feedback. It’s not silent, but it’s very pleasant.
  • Video performance is excellent. As an alternative to the Canon EOS 5D mark III, it doesn’t have all of the bells and whistles. But at $1000 cheaper, the 6D video mode is no slouch. it offers everything you need to make professional quality HD video. Pair that with the excellent selection of lenses that you have available for the EF mount and the 6D is probably the best video DSLR you can buy in terms of price to performance. Furthermore, if you install the Magic Lantern firmware hack, you can unlock some missed functions like headphone monitoring, focus peaking and programmable focus pull.
  • Live-View in low light is very clean. Compared to most other DSLRs and mirrorless cameras alike, the 6D has a very clean live view feed. This makes focusing for astrophotographs very nice even when using extended ISOs in extremely dark conditions. Pair the 6D with a fast lens for astrophotography like the Rokinon 24mm f/1.4 and focusing on the stars is rather easy.
  • It’s weather sealed. While I don’t usually like to take my cameras out in the rain, the 6D has adequate weather sealing and in the year I’ve used it, it’s seen its fair share of water and dust and has given me no problems whatsoever. I’ve also never needed to clean the sensor, save for the rare use of a Giottos rocket blower. As far as I’ve seen, the 6D is weather tight.

Keeping with a rather minimalist setup, I primarily used only 3 lenses with the Canon EOS 6D: the Sigma 50mm f/1.4, the Rokinon 24mm f/1.4 and Rokinon 14mm f/2.8. For astrophotography, the 24mm f/1.4 is my most used lens and most of the images you see below were made with it. Combined with the 6D, it makes some of the cleanest images of the Milky Way I’ve ever seen. Okay, enough prose. Here are some of my favorite images made with the 6D during the last year:

Canon-EOS-6D Hidden Dunes

Canon EOS 6D, Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 @ f/11, 1/400th, ISO 200

The northerly view from Hidden Dunes in Death Valley National Park. 14mm of a full frame camera like the 6D makes for a very wide angle view which is great for large sweeping landscapes.

Canon-EOS-6D Galactic Center

Canon EOS 6D, Rokinon 24mm f/1.4 @ f/1.4, 45s, ISO 1600

Above is a crop of the galactic center and the Rho Ophiuchi cloud complex around the bright yellow star Antares. With the Rokinon 24mm f/1.4, the 6D can capture an amazing amount of star detail. Furthermore, the large aperture on the 24mm f/1.4 allowed me to use a relatively low sensitivity of ISO 1600 so the image is practically noise free.

Canon-EOS-6D Milky Way Galactic Center from Death Valley

Canon EOS 6D, Rokinon 14mm f/2.8, 60s, ISO 6400

The above image from Panamint Valley in Death Valley National Park is a single frame from my Lonely Speck teaser timelapse sequence used the beginning of my YouTube videos.

Canon EOS 6D Milky Way from Trona Pinnacles

Canon EOS 6D, Rokinon 24mm f/1.4 @ f/1.4, 13s, ISO 3200

The galactic center from Trona Pinnacles, California. This is also another single frame from a timelapse sequence made during an astrophotography workshop.

Canon EOS 6D Milky Way from Alabama Hills Mobius Arch

Canon EOS 6D, Rokinon 14mm f/2.8 @ f/2.8, 30s, ISO 6400

The above image was made during an astrophotography workshop in Alabama Hills where my participants, a young couple, decided to get engaged under the Milky Way.

Canon EOS 6D Santa Monica Sunset

Canon EOS 6D, Sigma 50mm f/1.4 @ f/1.4, 1/640th, ISO 1600

Canon EOS 6D Santa Monica Levitation

Canon EOS 6D, Sigma 50mm f/1.4 @ f/1.4, 1/60th, ISO 6400

Canon EOS 6D Wake Levitation

Canon EOS 6D, Sigma 50mm f/1.4 @ f/1.4, 1/60th, ISO 6400

The three portraits above are from a series of daily photography that I started at the beginning of the year: 50 image with a 50mm lens. All three were made with the Sigma 50mm f/1.4 shot wide open which is my favorite lens for portraits with the 6D. The levitation shots are simple composites where I removed a small chair used to support the subjects.

Canon EOS 6D Pumice Valley

Canon EOS 6D, Sigma 50mm f/1.4 @ f/1.4, 1/4000th, ISO 100

The above was made in Pumice Valley near Mammoth Lakes, California. In 2010 a brush fire swept through the valley leaving behind clear ground for bright red buckwheat plants to grow in the ashes. It made for a surreal setting of burnt black and white sculpted sagebrush scattered on a blanket of red.

Canon EOS 6D Milky Way from Joshua Tree National Park

Canon EOS 6D, Sigma 50mm f/1.4 @ f/2.0, 10s, ISO 3200

It turns out the a 50mm lens, although rather narrow angle of view for astrophotography, works quite well at capturing the stars. This image is a stitch of three 10 second photos with the Sigma 5omm which made for an angle of view very similar to a 35mm lens.

Canon EOS 6D Milky Way from Joshua Tree National Park

Canon EOS 6D, Rokinon 24mm f/1.4 @ f/1.4, 15s, ISO 6400

Finally, from the same location as the previous photo, this is a wider view made on the following day with a 24mm.

Conclusions

The Canon EOS 6D is one of the the best full frame DSLRs for landscape astrophotography. Even with relatively slow lenses, it’s capable of producing exceptionally clean and noise free images of the Milky Way. While I wish it had a tilting LCD for easier use with low camera positions and wish that the buttons were raised and gave more tactile feedback, it more than makes up for these quirks with its clean and color rich images. If you’re considering a full-frame camera particularly for low light images and astrophotography, the 6D is one of the best choices especially for it’s relatively low price.

You can buy the Canon EOS 6D from B&H here: (Body/Kit) Note: The kit lens is very good for most situations but if you’re serious about astrophotography, buy the body only and pair it with a fast prime like the Rokinon 24mm.

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About the product links on this post: I use affiliate links to the respective products that I mention on this page. If you decide to buy one of the products below, consider using the links in this article to support Lonely Speck. It won’t cost you anything extra but I’ll get small commission to support this website. Everything I suggest here is something that I would use (or already use) myself.

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Ian Norman

Creator at Lonely Speck
Ian Norman, co-founder and creator of The Photon Collective and Lonely Speck. Ian is a full time traveler, photographer and entrepreneur. In February 2013, he called it quits on his 9-to-5 to pursue a lifestyle of photography. Follow Ian's photography adventures on Instagram.

54 Responses

  1. Sushant Anand February 22, 2016 / 11:37 pm

    Hi Ian,

    I want to buy a full frame camera for Astrophotography and this will be my first full frame camera, earlier i have used Canon 650D for product photo shoot. I want you to suggest me a full frame camera, right now my eyes are on 6D which is in my budget and also a sony A7 which is a mirror less camera & i don’t know if it is better then 6D or not . I am fully depending on you, so that i can buy my gear. Lonely speck has inspired me to become a Astrophotographer, when i was a kid i use to look up in night sky and it was beautiful now after seeing your pictures i am inspired. i want you to also recommend me some full frame lenses for the camera.

    thank you so much
    Sushant Anand

  2. Gini Pete January 2, 2016 / 11:27 pm

    Your website and my affinity for Canon cameras finally convinced me to upgrade from a 5DmkI.
    What white balance and noise reduction (if any) settings do you use?
    Great locations…most of which I’m very familiar with.

  3. Bunker Bill November 30, 2015 / 12:56 am

    Hey bud nice pics…just wondering..finally got my 1st decent camera..a canon t5..i know it suppose to be a good beginner camera….just ordered a rokinon 24mm 1.4…do u think that would work or should I get a better camera? Thx

  4. Jakub Sisak July 8, 2015 / 10:53 am

    Hi Ian,
    Great images. I have a question re colour of your astro shots. I LOVE that orange gold tone of the highlights in your astro photos and the warm yet dark blues of the night sky. I understand WB is not of concern when shooting RAW, still – what kelvin do you set your camera to in the field and what colour correction, if any, do you do in post to achieve these tones.
    I have the 6D (no magic lantern – too scared to install), the Samyang 24mm f1.4 and other lenses.

  5. Alex June 29, 2015 / 5:03 pm

    Currently have a Canon 60D and recently am getting into astrophotography (one of your posts mentions heat issues). How does it compare to the 6D and would the 6D be a significant upgrade?

    • Ian Norman July 1, 2015 / 12:23 pm

      The 60D is an excellent camera and there’s honestly not a hugely compelling reason to upgrade the 6D unless you feel dramatically constrained by the 60D. There will generally be slightly better performance with the 6D at night but it’s, of course, lens dependent. The 60D with a fast lens, like the Rokinon 16mm/2, for example, will perform better than the 6D with a slow lens like the kit Canon EF 24-105mm/4 L IS USM. That said, the 6D with a fast lens will show gains in low-light shooting that aren’t possible with the 60D. I usually like to suggest that photographers stick with what they have until they know that they’re being held back by the limits of their equipment.

  6. suszq June 14, 2015 / 11:06 am

    Hi just got my 6d and my brother is getting married when the full moon comes up I have a canon 85mm and a tamron 24-75 2.5 or a nifty 50 which lens would u suggest and settings thanks

  7. Stefano Gabriele April 25, 2015 / 5:14 am

    Hi Ian,
    I own a canon 6d with 16-34 f4 L IS and a fuji x-t1 with samyang 2/12 and fujinon 1.4/35. For astrophotography purposes, would you suggest buying either the sigma 24mm f/1.4 art for canon, or the fujinon 16mm f/1.4 for the X-T1?
    Thank you for your answer and for your website full of precious information. Stefano

  8. Greg April 8, 2015 / 3:57 am

    Hi Ian,

    Now I”m torn between Nikon D7200 and Sony A77ii.
    Which camera will perform better for astrophotography?

    What makes A77ii so appealing to me is the fact that the LCD screen can be tilted, where as it is fixed in D7200.
    But from what I read in other reviews or forums, A77ii does not perform too well in low light condition.

    Thanks

  9. Andrew March 16, 2015 / 1:22 am

    Hi Ian, i have one question, which camera will be a better choice, Canon 6D or Sony a7s?

    • Ian Norman March 16, 2015 / 4:54 pm

      a7S. It is newer and performs better in low light.

  10. Shane February 9, 2015 / 11:36 am

    Hi! Great stuff here. One thing I have noticed with my Canon 6d is that I get purple bottom corners. I assume this is due to sensor heating. It gets really noticeable @iso 6400 or above. It looks pretty much non-existent in your shots, but it looks like you have done something to your corners where I have that issue. I noticed it mainly in the

    “Canon EOS 6D, Rokinon 14mm f/2.8, 60s, ISO 6400 The above image from Panamint Valley in Death Valley National Park is a single frame from my Lonely Speck teaser timelapse sequence used the beginning of my YouTube videos”

    image. I was wondering if you experience those purplish corners. You photos are amazing BTW.

    Thanks!

  11. Harry Calderbank February 2, 2015 / 8:33 pm

    Great article Ian. I have owned a 6D for a year or more now and it is the best camera I have ever owned. Although I have always loved low light shots, I have only recently started gaining an interest in astrophotography and I am still learning (and yearning for a Rokinon 24mm f1.4).

    Any thoughts on the little 40mm f2.8 as an astrophotography lens? I have tried it once or twice but it seems to suffer from coma a lot unless you stop down a lot.

    You mentioned the lack of intervalometer. If you plug into a laptop, the software that comes with the 6D has an intervalometer that controls the camera from the laptop. I’ve not tried it yet but it looked useful.

    I had the CHDK hack on my little Canon SX40 and found the intervalometer a bit unreliable in its timing. Sometimes it seemed to leave a longer gap between shots.

    Thanks again. I am a new Lonely Speck fan from down under (Australia) and looking forward to getting out there more often.

    • Ian Norman February 5, 2015 / 5:03 pm

      I’ve used the little 40mm a bit and it’s actually not bad, particularly for panorama stitching. I think it’s a good compromise between speed and portability.

  12. James January 11, 2015 / 10:44 am

    Great article! I have a question about which Sigma 50mm f/1.4 you used in the levitation photos? The link to B&H takes you to two Sigma lenses, a less expensive EX DG HSM lens and a more expensive DG HSM Art? Thanks!

    • Ian Norman January 12, 2015 / 2:32 am

      I used the 50mm EX DG HSM but the Art version is much improved for night photography in particular.

    • James January 15, 2015 / 4:11 pm

      I’ve got one more question, how would you compare the 6d to x-t1 in terms of timelapse sequences? I’ve got a x-e1 now and i’m looking to upgrade to something a little more rugged. I’ve taken a friends 6d and a couple lenses on a 3 day hike and after a day or so you can definitely feel the heft. After reading your x-t1 review I was pretty impressed with its quality and would absolutely appreciate the weight savings compared to the 6d but I haven’t really been able to find many examples of it being used for timelapse work. Thanks!

    • Ian Norman February 5, 2015 / 4:40 pm

      I prefer the X-T1 for timelapses because of the built-in intervalometer. You can install Magic Lantern on a 6D to do the same but it’s not as easy to set up.

  13. Jonno December 9, 2014 / 9:23 pm

    Hey Ian,

    Would you recommend using the handheld night scene mode on the 6d for casual night shots of, say, a nighttime city landscape shot, Or casual handheld night shots within a city. Or is there a better way to get sharper less noisy images with these types of shots in mind?
    Also would you recommend the rokinons for city night shots as well seeing as how the city itself would have a lot more light but I would still want the night sky to be noise free.

    Thanks!

    • Ian Norman December 10, 2014 / 1:28 pm

      When we’re not in a photon limited environment (like a bright city), pretty much any lens will do, it doesn’t need to be a fast prime like most of the Rokinon lenses I recommend here on Lonely Speck. For any night shots I would always recommend a tripod. That said, there’s no reason why you wouldn’t be able to shoot handheld, provided you are using a high enough ISO or low enough f/number. I’m not sure what the handheld night scene mode has in its programming but it’s likely something similar. For the cleanest shots, instead use a tripod and shoot a nice bright exposure at a low ISO.

      At night in a city, when using a tripod, it’s possible to stop down a bit (to about f/5.6 – f/8.0) for maximum sharpness since there is so much more light. Using the higher f/number, a longer exposure and a lower ISO will usually make for some very clean results. This can be done in aperture priority (Av) or manual mode (M). One of the “benefits” of stopping down to a slower aperture for a shot of city lights is that the brightest lights will usually appear to have starbursts around them due to the diffraction of light around the closed aperture blades. This phenomenon usually looks really cool (in my opinion). All lenses will behave this way when stopped down, including the Rokinons. The number of points in the star is usually determined by the number of blades in the lens aperture diaphragm. An even number of aperture blades will have an equal number of points in its starbursts. An odd number of aperture blades will have double the number of starbursts. For example: a lens with 8 blades (like most Canons/Rokinons) will have an 8 pointed starburst on bright lights when stopped down. A lens with 9 blades (like many Sigmas or Zeiss Lenses) will have 18 pointed starbursts.

    • Jonno December 10, 2014 / 8:44 pm

      Thanks a bunch man!

  14. Paul Ogle September 17, 2014 / 4:08 pm

    Hey Ian,
    When you were shooting with the 6D did you have long exposure noise reduction turned on, or just shoot extra dark frames when you stack images.. or both?

    Thanks

    • Ian Norman September 17, 2014 / 5:25 pm

      6D is pretty good without the need of long exposure noise reduction. I used it mostly only on warm nights when the camera would start to show some noise from the extra heat. I almost never shoot dark frames as it’s essentially the same function as long exposure noise reduction.

    • Paul Ogle September 17, 2014 / 5:30 pm

      good to know! thanks.

  15. Mary September 8, 2014 / 6:18 pm

    Shucks, image did not attach……

  16. Mary September 8, 2014 / 6:17 pm

    /Users/marybowmandement/Desktop/IMG_4946.jpeg Just want to share my very first night shot at one of the most incredible spots on earth! Halemaumau Crater in it’s glory. Much aloha, Mary. Now plan to purchase the Rokinon 24mm/1.4

  17. Jeanette Victoria August 29, 2014 / 9:55 am

    OM I got a lemon my live view does NOT work in low light at all it sucks!

    • Ian Norman September 8, 2014 / 8:10 pm

      Jeanette, are you using a relatively fast lens? I usually recommend a lens with an f/number rating of f/2.8 or lower.

  18. white chapel August 28, 2014 / 7:33 am

    Andrii is absolutely correct! I prefer DSLR-Controller for my 5DIII and Android.

  19. Shaun Dennis August 17, 2014 / 4:51 am

    If you want to extend your exposures to more than the M max of 30 seconds, pick up a remote. I paid £15 for mine and it’s been a revelation. You connect the receiver, pair the handheld transmitter, set your camera to Bulb, switch the handheld transmitter to Bulb as well, now when you click the button a timer will appear on-screen and should allow you up to about two minutes of exposure, but as mentioned, without tracking mounts, trails will be a nuisance.

  20. Elia Francoia August 12, 2014 / 7:38 am

    what tripod do you use for 6d? sirui t-025x?

    • Ian Norman August 12, 2014 / 11:14 pm

      I actually mostly use the cheapo Dolica Proline with the 6D. The Sirui T-025X works OK with the 6D but it’s not the most stable tripod with larger cameras and I prefer it with a compact system camera.

  21. Fraser July 25, 2014 / 3:20 am

    Hello I have been reading your site which has been very helpful in me choosing a camera and lenses. I have just purchased the Canon 6D, a Canon 50mm f/1.4 and the Samyang 14mm f/2.8, (the Samyang I have purchased purely to learn night photography in an attempt to capture the Milky Way). I also have a decent tripod and am familiar with StarWalk on my iPhone.
    With regards to one of your photos, I noticed you mentioned your settings were: Canon EOS 6D, Rokinon 24mm f/1.4 @ f/2.8, 60s, ISO 6400 …. How did you achieve the 60s exposure time? In Manual mode I can only seem to get the camera up to 30 seconds?
    Also what additional equipment can you recommend I purchase with regards to a night redlight and camera remote?
    Cheers :-)

    • Aki July 25, 2014 / 5:37 am

      You could either install Magic Lantern for 6D or just get a shutter release for under $15 on eBay. It’ll give you exposures as long as you want. Just note also, if you wish to avoid star trails that happen using Rule of 500 (I prefer it over 600) you’ll either need a star tracker or keep it under the maximum exposure. You simply take 500 divided by the focal length (24mm for example) which gives you 20.8 seconds on full frame. If you have crop sensor, you have to multiply that 24mm by 1.6 (or whatever your crop body is) and you’ll end up with shorter duration before the star trail is noticeable. Wider angle the more time you to expose including if the lens offer large aperture.

    • Fraser July 25, 2014 / 7:13 am

      Hi thanks for the reply about the equipment. However my question was:

      How did you achieve the 60s exposure time on your Canon 6d in the milky way photo in this thread? In Manual mode I can only seem to get the camera up to a 30 seconds exposure maximum?

      Also why did you take an exposure time of 60s and not 20.8s (which is 500 divided by 24)

    • Aki July 25, 2014 / 7:18 am

      He has Magic Lantern installed; basically allows more exposure length without using cable. If you don’t want to install Magic Lantern then you need the shutter release cable like I mentioned.

      If you look closely at the 60 second photo you can see some star trails. That’s what happens if it’s exposed longer but it also depends on the location of where you’re at. So you have to play around with the exposure time also to see how the stars look in the photo.

    • Fraser July 25, 2014 / 7:21 am

      ah so am I right in thinking that the shutter release cable controls the length of exposure and therefore bypassing the camera setting for exposure time?

    • Aki July 25, 2014 / 7:24 am

      Yes, if you buy the cable, you set it to “Bulb” function which you can then use the shutter release to set the exposure time. The shutter release is really neat as you can set it for very long exposures (minutes to hours) as well as repeating shots; so if you want to set the camera to take a photo every 10 seconds or every 5 minutes, etc then you’ll have a time lapse of photos during the day or at night.

    • Fraser July 25, 2014 / 7:26 am

      Gotcha and now understand :-))) Any brand you may recommend … can see the canon one is £100+ which seems a bit steep :-( Also any night redlight you can recommend?

    • Aki July 25, 2014 / 7:34 am

      I rarely use a red light if anything there are cheap flashlights with red filter you can buy anywhere. You can probably use your phone with an app that can turn your screen red. Don’t buy the Canon brand; go to eBay and search for “shutter release cable 6D”. It uses two AAA batteries and lasts for a very long time. You have a nice setup there with the 14mm so I’d shoot wide open at f2.8, set ISO to 3200 or 6400 and see how 30 second exposure looks.

      But of course location is everything, you need to get away from any big cities and areas that have a lot of lights. Basically somewhere that’s VERY dark at night where it won’t pick up a lot of orange glow from the artificial lights. Up in the mountains away from any human civilization usually works :)

    • Ian Norman July 25, 2014 / 11:17 pm

      Fraser, sorry for the late reply: for that particular image, I used a tracking mount (the Vixen Polarie) to track the stars for the longer exposure. The camera was using a cheap Neewer intervalometer. The stars are still trailing on the edges because I was not properly “polar aligned” and instead had the axis pointed straight up. I recommend the Petzl Tikka Plus 2 or pretty much any of the Petzls, They last for ever, are waterproof, and can turn on directly into red mode so you don’t ruin your night vision. For the camera remote, grab Magic Lantern or a Neewer intervalometer for the Canon N3 plug. Hope that answers your questions.

    • Ian Norman July 25, 2014 / 11:26 pm

      Also, Aki, thanks so much for your replies to help Fraser!

    • Himanshu October 24, 2014 / 11:29 am

      Hi Ian,

      You mentioned in your reply that you used Vixen Polarie for tracking the stars. The foreground is however not blurred. How did you achieve that?

      Cheers.

    • Ian Norman October 25, 2014 / 3:28 am

      Himanshu, It actually is blurred.

  22. Mike July 19, 2014 / 3:50 pm

    Hey man, just to let you know your site has inspired to try and do some astrophotography for myself, but being a city kid I gotta get pretty far from where I live. Do you think there is a big difference between shooting astrophography with the 6D vs something like the XT-1? P.S. I grabbed the rokinon 8mm fisheye for my fuji based on your recommendation and I love it. Absolutely amazing value.

    • Ian Norman July 20, 2014 / 2:11 pm

      I ultimately switched to the Fujifilm X-T1 because of its small size. The photographs that come out of the Fuji are nearly as clean as the 6D and the whole system is smaller. I’ve been traveling as much as possible to help the content of Lonely Speck grow and being able to keep my camera bag compact has made things much nicer. Glad you’re enjoying the 8mm fisheye!

  23. Andrii Yasynovyi June 10, 2014 / 3:50 pm

    Great article! Absense of LCD tilt can be slightly compensated by using WiFi app for 6d and, for example, Android tablet.

    • Ian Norman June 10, 2014 / 9:44 pm

      Good tip Andrii!

  24. Aki April 22, 2014 / 7:13 am

    Gorgeous work & review! I haven’t had the chance to get outside with my new 6D but very excited to try it out next weekend with the new moon. Hopefully the weather will hold out!

  25. Pat March 27, 2014 / 6:29 am

    Sounds like the 6D IS a great camera for Astrophotography but I don’t see how you can say it’s the “greatest” without having even compared it to the Nikon D600/610. I’m not saying the Nikon would be better but you didn’t even consider it.
    One other thing: you say the 6D is the greatest but in your “What’s in My Camera Bag” article, you state that the Fuji X-T1 is “good enough that I don’t miss my…6D for a second.” Not exactly contradictory but it still seems odd.
    BTW, I also have the Sirui T-025X but only for international travel. I’d never considered putting my full frame dSLR on it for regular use, especially for a 30 sec. exposure. I guess it would be okay for your Fuji though.

    • Ian Norman April 8, 2014 / 9:35 am

      This review was never really intended to be a comparison post, merely my opinion on the camera.
      The “What’s in my Camera Bag” article was literally what was in my camera bag at the time of writing. It’s true that the X-T1 is good enough that I don’t miss the 6D as I’m traveling. If I had the luggage space, I’d have brought the 6D. I use the T-025X with the 6D all the time without any real issues. Often times I leave the center column at home. Most of my shooting is done with pretty low tripod positions so the small tripod works just fine. I also usually put a priority on pack weight so I often grab the lighter setup.

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